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Historic Landmarks of Monterey 

Illustrated. 



A GUIDE TO MONTEREY AND ENVIRONS. 



Special Souvenir Edition. 



"Beautiful as poet's dream, when the hills, with verdure teem, 
Like some gem of brightest ray, there enthroned is Monterey." 



Historic Landmarks of Monterey, California 

A brief sketch of the landmarks of Monterey, with a resume of the 

history of Monterey since its discovery, and a 

sketch of the okl social life. 



A guide book for tourists and visitors. 

By 

Anna Geil Andresen 



Chairman of California History Committee, Native Daughters of the Golden West, and Land- 
marks Preservation Committee, California Federation of Women's Clubs. 
Salinas, California 
1917 






Copyrighted by 

Anna Geil Andresen 
1917 



J 




M -7 1917 

©CU-i (52908 



p. 



■'Serra's month, and the fields he trod I 
Priest and man, knight errant of God! 
His was the blood that faces the guns; 
His the quest of the younger sons; 
But the wealth he sought is found by few. 
For the souls of men was the lure he knew. 

His is the Path where he stood as guide 
When the Mission rose by the Carmel's side — 
A Path whose ending is set afar 
Beyond the journeys of world and star; 
For an unseen City beckoned him, 
\\nTose Gate was held bv the seraphim." 

— ( Ieor<>-e Stirlin<j". 



Carmel, Calif.. Xov. IS. 1913. in S. F. Examiner 



CONTENTS 

Page 

Foreword 2 

Monterey — Discovery and Name . 3 

San Carlos Mission 6 

San Carlos Church 8 

The Custom House --. --- 9 

First Brick House in California - - 10 

Sloat Monument - 11 

Unveiling and Dedication of Sloat Monument 12 

Viscaino-Serra Tree - 14 

Serra Monument 15 

Whaling Station 15 

California's First Theatre 17 

Pacific House 19 

Colton Hall - ..-,..- 20 

Larkin House 22 

Sherman's Headquarters - - 24 

House of the Four Winds - 24 

First Frame House in California... 25 

Robert Louis Stevenson's House 25 



CONTENTS Continued 



The Convent - 27 

The Washington Hotel — .- 31 

The Presidio -- .- 33 

Point Pinos Lighthouse 36 

Home of Senorita Bonifacio 37 

Abrego Home - — 39 

Pacheco House — — 41 

Munras House (Now the home of Hon. T. J. Field) 41 

Cooper Home - --- 43 

Amesti Residence - 45 

Merritt House -- - 45 

Soberanes Home 46 

The Doud House ; --- 46 

Other Homes - - - 47 

Governors of California - -- 49 

Important Events (Summary of history of Monterey) 50 

Social Life in Old Monterey 69 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Fray Junipero Serra. Founder of Franciscon MiBsioiis. 17C9-1784. 

Castro-Sanchez Home (Birthplace of the writer.) 

Viscaino-Serra Landing. 

San Carlos Mission. 

San Carlos Church ("The Royal Chapel") 

First Brick House. 

Custom House and Sloat Monument. 

Unveiling and Dedication of Sloat Monument. 

California's First Theatre. 

Colton Hall. 

House of the Four Winds and Sherman and Halleck's Headquarters. 

The Convent. 

Washington Hotel. 

Commodore John Sloat 

Alvarado Street in Stevenson's and Stoddard's Time. 



Page One 



"Talk nut of the storied Ivhine, 
Xor Italia's simny clime, 
Xor the Orient so fair, 
\Vith its balmy perfumed air. 
Crowned with old historic lore. 
Well T love this rock-boimd shore; 
'Tis to thee I sing- my lay — 
Queen of lieautv, Monterev." 



Piigc Two 

FOREWORD 

Monterey is rich in historic l)uildino-s and other hmdniarks. Signs mark 
these places, l)ut give little satisfaction to the tourist or visitor who 
wishes to know something of their origin and history. Numerous booklets 
have already been written on the history of Monterey within the last few 
3^ears, but they are all by newcomers who were forced to depend for their 
information upon local in(|uiries, and had scant means of verification, and 
were often imposed upon. 

T feel that T am more favorably situated for my assumed task, for 
Monterey is my birthplace, and was my home for many years. It was 
also the birthplace of two generations, and the home of three generations 
of mv family before me. In this way I bring to this brief sketch the aid 
of direct personal knowledge combined with a reliable tradition. 

Hiis booklet is now offered the public to meet the want for a brief and 
reliable sketch of the most important historical objects about the peninsula 
of Monterey. 

Manv details and biographical sketches, designed for this work have 
been omitted for lack of sjDace, but these, however, wnth other interest- 
ing matters connected with the history of Monterey will be published 
at an earlv date in another edition — a great portion of the material for 
which is already prepared. AXXA GEIL AXDRESEN. 




(^astro-Saiichcz Home, Alvurailo street 
Built in 1828 by Don Simeon Castro, Alcalde of Monterey, 183(5-1838. 
Birthplace of tlie writei", her mother and f»>"«"dmother, and h<»me of her threat 
{•randparents and g,'i'andpai"ents. 
House, wrecked in 1890. 



Piif:;e Time 

MONTEREY 

DISCOVERY AND NAME. 

In point of historic interest, scenic beauty and romance, no other town 
in the state occupies so prominent a place as picturesque Monterey. From 
the earhest period in Cahfornia's history it has been sought by navigators 
and explorers, and is conspicuous as the spot where the most important 
political and historical events of our state have taken place. 

As early as 1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by birth, in 
command of two Spanish exploring vessels, sailed into the waters of beau- 
tiful Monterey bay, and anchored in forty-five fathoms, but did not at- 
tenij^t to land on account of the high seas. He took a description of the 
bay he had discovered and named it "Bahia de Los Pinos'' (Bay of Pines). 
The point which is now known as Point Pinos, he named "El Cabo de 
Los Pinos," (The Cape of Pines). 

On December 16, 1602, sixty years after Cabrillo's voyage, Don Sebas- 
tian X'iscaino, sailing under the instructions of King Philip TIT of Spain, 
landed at Monterey with three Carmelite priests and a body of soldiers. 
A cross was erected and an altar improvised under an oak tree at the 
mouth of a small ravine; and the spot named "Monterey" in ht)nor of Gas- 
])ar de Zuniga, Count of Monterey, Mexico, X'iceroy of Mexico, and patron 
of the exi)editinn — Mexico then being imder Spanish rule. 



Page Four 

The first view ()1)lained of the coast of -\[onterey b}- X'iscaino and his 
men was on the 14th of December, when the fog Hfted, and showed the 
mountain rani>"e, which they named "Santa Lucia." Shortly afterwards 
they sio'hted a river which they named "Rio del Carmelo" in honor of the 
Carmelite i)riests accompan^ino- the ex])edition. Then they rounded the 
]K)int which they called "Punta de Pinos," a name it retains to this day. 

X'iscaino, who was the first white man to place foot on the soil of Mon- 
terey, took a full description of the country, and after remaining eig'hteen 
days, continued his voyage, hoping soon to return with material for the 
founding of a settlement. Tie died, however, before his hopes were real- 
ized, and the i)rimiti'/e silence of Monterey was not again disturbed for a 
])eriod of one hundred and sixty-eight vears. 

When Padre junijiero Serra was sent to the coast in 1768 to found the 
Franciscan missions, the most cherished object of his expedition was the 
establishing of a mission at the "Montere\'" visited hx X'iscaino, and his 
cherished dream was realized two years later. 

On Jul}- 14, 1769, twT) weeks after the founding of San Diego mission, 
Don (ias])ar de Portola. governor of IJaha (lower) California, in command 
of sixty-five persons, left San Diego by land to rediscover the spot named 
"Monterey," b\' X'iscaino. Thev reached Monterey, l)ut failing to recognize 




Viscaino-Serra Landing 
1(502-1770 



Page Five 

the place, resumed their march further north, travehng as far as Point 
Reyes and discovering the bay of San Francisco. Fully satisfied that he 
had passed Monterey, Portola and party returned and stopped at Mon- 
terey again, but still could not recognize, in the waters before them, the 
bay of which they were in search. 

Unable to find Monterey bay the expedition left for San Diego on De- 
cember 9, 1769, arriving there on January 24, 1770. Before leaving Mon- 
terey, however, two crosses were erected, one near Point Pinos and the 
other in the Carmel V^alley. On one was the inscription that the party 
had returned to San Diego, and on the other were the words: "Escarba 
al pie y hallaras un escrito." "Dig at the foot, and you will find a writing." A 
glass bottle was buried at the foot of the cross, with a brief account of the 
expedition, closing with a prayer to God, the All Powerful, "to guide the 
expedition on its way and to conduct the navigator, whoever he might be, 
that should find the paper, to the port of salvation." 

The third attempt to found a settlement at Monterey, however, was 
more successful. On May 31, 1770, the vessel San Antonio, commanded 
by Don Juan Perez, with Padre Junipero Serra on board, arrived from 
San Diego and anchored at the port of Monterey. In the meantime the 
expedition that had been sent by land, consisting of Governor Portola, 



Page Six 

Father Francisco Crespi and Lt. Pedro Fages, with a hody of soldiers, had 
arrived at Monterey a week before. On May 24 they had reached the 
cross that had been erected near Point Pinos, as before stated, and upon 
approaching- it found it surrounded with arrows and feathers, which had 
been placed there by the Indians. 

On June 1st, the next day after the arrival of the San Antonio, the 
parties met amid g'reat rejoicino-. 

San Carlos Mission 

On June 3, 1770, being- Pentecost Sunday, was founded San Carlos Mis- 
sion, under the same oak tree where N'iscaino had held services one hun- 
dred and sixty years before. An altar vv^as erected, a cross blessed, and 
Mass chanted, the first Mass ever celebrated in Monterey. 

After this, the officers took possession of the country in the name of the 
King-, Charles Til of Spain. Thus at one and the same time were founded 
the Mission and Presidio, and Monterey became the religious and military 
capital of Alta California, and Portola governor of both Alta and Baja 
California. Structures for the Presidio and Mission were soon erected by 
the side of an "estero" or creek, where San Carlos Church of Monterey 
now stands. 




San Carlos Mission 



Page Seven 

Shortly afterwards Governor Portola delivered over the military com- 
mand to Lt. Pedro Pages, and embarking on the San Antonio on July 9, 
sailed for San Bias. He never again returned to Monterey. 

Ov^ing to the insufficiency of good soil, and water for irrigation, San 
Carlos Mission was removed to the banks of the Rio del Carmelo, five 
miles from Monterey, but the Presidio and chapel still remained at Mon- 
terey. The Presidio was called "El Presidio Real" and the chapel became 
known as "la Capilla Real," or "Royal Chapel.' The new mission at Car- 
mel was often thereafter called Carmel Mission because of its location, but 
in the official reports it was always designated as San Carlos de P)Or- 
romeo or San Carlos de Monterey. San Carlos Mission was Father Junip- 
ero's "own charge," and there he spent all his time, when not called away 
by his duties as president of the Missions. The saintly padre passed into 
his reward in August, 1784, at the age of seventy years, nine months and 
four days, at San Carlos Mission, and was buried, according to his wishes, 
by the side of his assistant. Father Crespi, in the sanctuary of the 
chapel, as the present building was not completed until 1797. 

In 1793, (leorge Vancouver, the English navigator, visited San Carlos 
Mission and was cordially entertained by Padre Fermin Lasuen, president 
of the Franciscan Missions and successor to Junipero Serra. Tn his notes. 



Page Eight 

he speaks of the new church, then in process of construction, which is the 
wonderful San Carlos of today. 

After the secularization of the Missions in 1834, San Carlos became an 
abandoned ruin and was left to the mercy of the vandal and the relic 
hunter. It was restored in 1884, durino- the pastorate and through the 
efforts of Rev. Angelo Casanova, parish priest of San Carlos at Monterey. 

San Carlos Church, Monterey. 

Among- the most sacred objects of veneration in the town of Old Mon- 
terey is the Church of San Carlos de Monterey. The present building- 
was erected at the Presidio in 1794, and was called the Royal Chapel be- 
cause it was the place of worship for the governors of California who were 
the representatives of the King of Spain. At the time of the seculariza- 
tion of Mission Carmel in 1834, the church at Monterey became the parish 
church, Padre Jose Real being then in charge, and holding services occa- 
sionally at Carmel. In 1858, the transept was added and main altar erected. 
The Rev. Angelo Casanova, during his ])astorate in Monterey, from 1868 
to 1893, did much to keep this sacred building in repair. He was succeeded 
l)y the present pastor, the Rev. R. M. Mestres, whose refinement and cul- 
ture are shown in the interior remodeling of the church and in all the im- 
provements belonging to the church since his connection with San Carlos. 




San <'url()s ('Imi'ch 
Fouiuled as a mission in 1770. 



Page Nine 

The Custom House. 

Historically speaking, no other building on the Pacific Coast occupies 
so prominent a place as the Old Custom House. Over this building have 
floated the flags of three nations: The proud banner of Spain that pio- 
neered the course of the missionaries to this off-port of the world ; the tri- 
color of Mexico in a later regime (1822-1846) and last, but not least, the 
glorious Stars and Stripes, unfurled by Commodore Sloat, on July 7, 1846, 
ending Mexican rule in California forever. 

As nearly as can be ascertained, the upper or north end of the building- 
was erected in 1814, when the country was under Spanish rule. The cen- 
ter or one-story section was built by Mexico in 1822, after it had gained 
its independence from Spain, and the lower end, which is an exaci dupli- 
cate of the north end, was built after the American occupation in 1846. 
On the taking of Monterey by the United States naval forces under Com- 
modore Sloat, July 7, 1846, the Custom House became the headquarters 
of Captain Mervine and a party of marines. 

It is now the property of the state, and is under the care of the order of 
Native Sons of the Golden West, and the Native Sons and Daughters 
have their headquarters there. On the building there is a tablet with 
the following inscription: 



Page Ten 

"Tt was over this building that the American flag was raised by Com- 
modore John Drake Sloat, on July 7, 1846, signalizing the passing of Cali- 
fornia from Mexican rule. 

"Restored through the efforts of Native Sons of the Golden West, with 
the assistance of the people of California." 

First Brick House. 

This house stands on Decatur street, a near neighbor to the Custom 
House, and has a very interesting history. (iallant Duncan Dickinson, 
the son of a \*irginia planter, was born in 180n. After he married he left 
the South for Independence, Alissouri, from wdiere he started for Cali- 
fornia, with the Donner Party, in May, 1846, with five wagons, his wife, 
four sons and two dau2"hter, Mars;"aret and Lucv, now J\Irs. A. G. Lawrie 
of Pacific Grove and Mrs. N. B. Stoneroad of Las Vegas. At Fort 
Bridger the Dickinson party separated from the Donner party and took 
the route more generally traveled, having many perilous experiences, but 
iinally reached Sutter's Fort, where they tarried for two days, and con- 
tinued on to Santa Clara. Hearing there that war had broken out be- 
tween Mexico and the United States, (Gallant Dickinson and two of his 
s(Mis, with A. G. Lawrie, who afterward became his son-in-law, enlisted 
in Captain C. M. Weber's company. 




First Brick House 



-Courtesy of Grizzly Bear 



Page Eleven 

Returning from their service, they continued on to Monterey, where 
Judge Dickinson bought the land on Decatur street on which he built the 
historic house. The actual builder was A. G. Lawrie, who was a brick 
mason. Suitable clay for making bricks was found, a kiln made and 
burned and one wing of the house was built and completed. The build- 
ing was never completed. That is to say, the house as it stands today is 
only a wing of the building originally planned. The rush to the gold fields 
diverted the purposes of its builder, who never returned to complete the 
original plans, although the little red brick house, with singular patience, 
has awaited the return of Gallant Duncan Dickinson since 1848. 

The Sloat Monument. 

The Sloat Monument stands on the hill, in the government reservation, 
and is a memorial to Commodore John Drake Sloat, who raised the Stars 
and Stripes over the Custom House on July 7, 1846, taking possession of 
California for the United States. Congress appropriated the sum of $10,- 
000 toward the monument, and this is the only monument outside of Wash- 
ington, D. C, to receive aid from the federal government, commemorat- 
ing the deeds of either an army or nav}^ officer. The foundation, or base, 
is constructed of sixty-six granite blocks contributed by thirty-five 
counties, cities, oro-anizations and individuals. 



Page Twelve 

Unveiling and Dedication of the Sloat Monument at the Presidio of Mon- 
terey, California, June 14, 1910. 

(National Flag Day and Bear Flag Day also.) 

Through the kindness of Mrs. Edwin A. Sherman we are able to present 
a photo of the unveiling of the Sloat monument, with the following data 
by Major Edwin A. Sherman: 

General Thomas E. Ketcham, V. M. W., president of the Sloat Monu- 
ment Association, introduced Colonel Chas. W. Mason, U. S. A., com- 
manding the Post, as President of the Day, who delivered the address 
of welcome. Prayer was offered by R. R. Bishop Ford Nichols. Chaplain 
of the Day. A l)rief historical sketch was given by Major Edwin A. Sher- 
man, \\ M. W., founder and secretary of the Sloat Monument Associa- 
tion. Remarks were made by Lieut. Col. John Biddle, U. S. A., under 
whose supervision the monument was finished. 

Dedication by M. W. AVilliam Frank Pierce, 2>?) M. W. Grand Master, 
assisted by the oft'icers and members of the M. W. Grand Lodge of 
F. & A. M. of California; W. Bro. Charles A. Adams, Grand Orator, de- 
livering a fine oration. 

An eloquent and patriotic address was delivered by General Chas. A. 
Woodruff" (retired), speaking for both the army and navy. 





—Courtesy of Grizzly Beat 
Sloat Monument 



—Courtesy of Grizzly Bear 
('ustoin House 



Page Thirtan 

Unveiling- of the monument by Miss Iilleanor Mason, representing the 
U. S. Army, and by Mrs. Eleanor Phelps Glassford, Jr., representing- the 
U. S. Navy. Salutes being fired by the artillery at the Presidio and by 
the U. S. ship, Yorktow^n, Commaner Victor Blue, commanding, and 
who in the morning raised his flag on the old Custom House where he was 
welcomed by Mayor Will Jacks of Monterey and Mayor D. T. Welch 
of Pacific Cirove; Ensign George Joerns, U. S. X., reading Sloat's procla- 
mation. 

All the exercises were closed with prayer l)y Rev. A. A. McAllister, 
U. S. N. (retired), to whom great credit is due in collecting contributions 
for the monument, when chaplain at Mare Island Navy Yard. 

Splendid music was furnished by the band of the Eighth U. S. In- 
fantry, which regiment was present in full force. 

Air. Henry L. Van Winckle and others of the Society of California Pio- 
neers of San Francisco, Grand Army of the Republic, Native Sons and 
Daughters of the Golden West, were present among the several thousands 
of spectators at the exercises, including the troops at the Presidio. 

Edwin A. Sherman, vSecretary of the Sloat Monument Assn'., 

1728 Franklin Street, Oakland, Cal. 



Pdffc Fourteen 

Xote: the picture represents the monument before the tmveiling. 
The eagle that surmounts the pedestal of the monument weighs 
over seven tons. To U. S. Senator Hon. Geo. C. Perkins and Congress- 
man Hon. Joseph R. Knowland and Hon. J. C. Needham, are we espec- 
ially indebted for the appropriation of $10,000 for the completion of the 
montnnent. 

Viscaino—Serra Tree 

This historic tree near where Viscaino landed, and where Junipero Serra. 
a hundred and sixty-eight years later, celebrated the first Mass may be seen 
in the grounds of San Carlos Church A few years ago, while workmen were 
constructing a culvert near it, its roots were greatly injured, and shortly 
following, it was torn up and without ceremony or farewell, thrown into 
the bay. Monterey's most public spirited citizen, the Hon. H. A. Greene, 
and the zealous pastor of San Carlos Church, the Rev. R. M. Mestres, feel- 
ing the pathos of it, and the value of this venerable tree as an object les- 
son and historical relic, rescued it from the bay, and had it placed in the 
rear of the chtirch. In its place, near where the tree originally stood, is a 
handsome and costly granite cross, erected by Mr. J. D. Murray, a liberal- 
hearted citizen and lover of Monterey's romantic past. 




Unveiling of Sloat Monument, June J 4, 1010. 



Pholn—Mrs.Edu'jv Shomati 



Pdfic Fifteen 



Serra Monument. 



Another memorial to Junii)ero Serra is the monument erected in 1891 
by Mrs. Jane Stanford, which stands on an eminence fronting the Bay of 
Monterey, and close by the spot where the illustrious friar landed, on 
June 3, 1770. The monument represents a life size fig'ure of Junipero 
Serra, in the act of landing, with one foot standing in the small boat and 
the other stepping on the rocky shore. A large cross, ready to be erected 
as soon as the landing is made, lies in the boat, and lengthwise with the 
same, on which is inscribed: June 3, 1770. 

THE WHALING STATION. 

The old whaling building on Decatur street next to the First Brick 
House was built in 1855, about a year after the Monterey Whaling Com- 
pany was organized. In the fall of 1854, Capt. J. P. Davenport, an old 
an experienced whaler from Cape Cod, Mass., organized a company con- 
sisting of about twenty-one men. In 1855 a company of Portuguese, 
known as the Old Company, was organized with seventeen men and two 
boats. These companies were successful, and continued the business till 
1865, when the two consolidated into one company, and Captain T. G. 
Lambert from IMartha's A'^ineyard took charge of the consolidated busi- 



Page Sixteen 

ness. 1 he whale fishery was one of the most important local industries 
for a period of nearly thirty-five years. Whaling as a regular business 
gradually became unprofitable, however, the whales becoming" scarcer 
each year, and as an industry was finally abandoned about 1888. This 
old house is now the property of private parties. 

The life of the whaler was very exciting and dangerous, as the boat 
often capsized and the men had to swim for their lives. Tn a hand book of 
Monterey published in 1875, the story is told of a man who was allowed to 
go with the whalers upon assuring them that he was not afraid. "Soon a 
whale spouted nearby and the captain, true to his aim, lodged a harpoon 
in its body. The whale made for the mouth of the bay, the boat almost 
flying in its wake. The amateur whaler now began to get excited, not to 
say scared. His teeth chattered, he prayed and hung on to the boat like 
grim death. Faster and faster went the boat, the water just even with 
the gimwale, and whiter and whitergrew the gentleman's face. At length 
the limit of his endurance w^as reached. He jumped to his feet and yelled 
out in frantic accents: "Cut the rope. For heaven's sake cut the rope, Fll 
pay for the whale." The rope was not cut, and the whale was secured with- 
out much difficultv. 




1. John O'Neil 

2. Mrs. J. AV. Finch 

(at 22) 

3. Mrs. O'Neil 

4. First Theater 

5. Jack Swan 

— Courtesy of Grizzly Beat 



Page Seventeen 

California's "First Theater." 

The "First Theater" stands on the corner of Pacific and Scott streets. 
It boasts of no architectural features, save that it is a long, rectangular 
adobe, typical of the time in which it was built. It was first constructed 
for a sailors' boarding house by John A. Swan, locally known as "Jack 
Swan, Pioneer of 1843," which inscription he wore on his hat band during 
his later years. 

John Swan came to Monterey on the ship Soledad from Mazatlan, 
Mexico, in the spring of 1843, having been a deep-sea sailor in many parts 
of the world. Shortly after his arrival he built the adobe, one wing of 
which he used as a dwelling, and the other for the boarding house. The 
first theatrical performance was only an incident in the career of this ven- 
erable structure, yet the incident should not be forgotten. It is a subject 
of sentiment and history, and well worthy of more than passing notice. A 
brief review, therefore, of its history, is not amiss at this time, and is 
only a fitting recognition of the rapidly receding past. 

About the time that Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson's regiment of New 
"S^ork volunteers were disbanded after the close of the Mexican war, the 
colonel, with three companies, came to Monterey. A short time after 
their arrival, some of the members of the regiment gave an out door per- 



Page Eiglifccii 

fornicince, which was a success. Encouraged by their enterprise, they per- 
suaded "Jack' Swan to ht up for dramatic purposes, the long wing of the 
building which was used as a boarding house. A pit was built and a 
stage, wdiich was shut off from the main body of the theater by a wooden 
partition, hung on hinges. This partition served as a drop curtain, and 
was raised and lowered much like the lid of a box. The soldiers found 
other performers who joined them. In the winter of 1847, a com])any of 
strf)lling comedians had been giving outdoor performances in Los Ange- 
les, assisted by several soldiers and officers, among them Chas. E. Bing- 
liam, an aid de camp on the staff of General Zachary Taylor, and Lieu- 
tenant Alfred Sully, and John Derby — the latter, the famous humorist, 
better known by his pen name of "John Phoenix' and "Squibob." who is 
said to have been the original inspiration for the latter day humor of 
Mark Twain. The discovery of gold had caused a disbandment of the 
comi)any, and they, too, had come to Montere}'. A theatrical company 
was organized at Monterey, composed of these strolling comedians and 
members of the regiment already mentioned. Programs were written, 
l)ills and posters |)rinted \vith a blacking pot and brush, announcing that 
"Putnam:" or, "The Lion Son of 1776," would be the first play put on. It 
is said that seats sold for five dollars. Among those who took part in the 



Page Nineteen 

performance were AEajor John O'Neal, "Company E," Stevenson's Regi- 
ment, and his wife, Ellen O'Neal, parents of Mrs. J. W. Finch of Monte- 
rey. The company played for several months, their first eiTort being fol- 
lowed b}^ "Box and Cox,' "Damon and Pythias," "Grandfather White- 
head," "Nan, the Good for Nothing," "The Golden Farmer," and the bal- 
cony scene from "Romeo and Juliet." 

THE PACIFIC HOUSE. 

This house is a conspicuous landmark at the junction of Alvarado, Main 
and Scott streets. It was built for a hotel by James McKinley, a native 
of Scotland, and a pioneer of 1824. Later he sold the property to Mr. David 
Jacks, one of Monterey's most prominent citizens, who rented the lower 
floors for stores, and used the upper for a private store house. For many 
years the Presbyterian church held services in this building, and now tin 
upper floor is the headquarters of the Salvation Army. 

Bull and bear tights were held in the yard in the rear, and it is said that 
seats were sold at an exorbitant price. It is now the property of the Jacks 
corporation, the largest landowners of Monterey county. 



Page Twenty 

Colton Hall. 

Colton Hall is famous as the first Capitol building of California, hav- 
ing been the meeting place of the ''First Constitutional Convention," and, 
as such, is dear to the hearts of the people of California. 

It was built 1)y the Rev. Walter Colton, a chaplain of the frigate Con- 
gress, who was appointed provisional alcalde on July 28, 1846, by Commo- 
dore Stockton, the successor of Commodore Sloat. He was afterwards 
elected to the same office by the people. The funds for the building were 
raised bv subscriptions, by fines imposed in courts, and by prison labor. 
While in Monterey, from 1846 to 1849, he kept a dairy which he after- 
wards published, entitled: "Three Years in California." Of this work he 
says: "Thursday, March 8, 1849 — "The town hall, on which I have been at 
work for more than a year, is at last finished. It is built of white stone, 
(juarried from a neighboring hill and which easily takes the shape you 
desire. The lower apartments are for schools; the hall over them, sev- 
enty by thirty feet, is for public assemblies." 

"The front is ornamented with a portico, which you enter from the hall. 
It is not an edifice that would attract any attention among public build- 
ings in the United States, but in California it is without a rival. It has 
been erected out of the slender proceeds of town lots, the labor of con- 




Colton Hall 



—Courtesy o) Grizzly Bear 



Page Twenty-one 

victs, taxes on liquor shops and fines on gamblers. The scheme was re- 
garded with incredulity by many, but the building is hnished, and the citi- 
zens have assembled in it, and christened it after my name, which will go 
down to posterity with the odor of gamblers, convicts and tipplers." 

On the third of Jtme, 1849, General Bennett Riley, who was then the 
military governor of California, ordered an election to be held in August, 
1849, to elect delegates to meet at Monterey on September 1, 1849, for 
the purpose of forming a state constitution. This convention, consisting 
of forty-eight members, and representing all parts of the state, and almost 
every state in the Union, met at the a])pointed time at Colton hall, and 
after six weeks of deliberation a constitution was framed, reported, 
adopted and signed October 13, 1849. 

Colton Hall is in a good state of preservation. On March 25. 1913, the 
state legislature passed an act providing for a state board of three trustees, 
with authority to lease Colton Hall from the city of Monterey for ten 
years, and to provide for the preservation, protection and improve- 
ment of the property. It is now rented by the city and used as a city hall. 
Geo. Bertold, a shoe merchant, who died July 24, 1909, bequeathed v$10,- 
000 to beautify the grounds of Colton Hall. A fountain has been erected, 
on a slab of which is the poem, "Monterey," written by Daniel O'Connell 
in 1874, and not bv Robert Louis Stevenson, as is thought b^' some. 



Page Twenty-two 

The Larkin House. 

Not far from Colton hall, as one walks down the hill, on the corner of 
of Main and Jefferson streets, stands the house built by Thos. O. Larkin 
in 1834. Mr. Larkin came to Monterey in 1832, and opened the first 
wholesale and retail store in the town. He became Lhiited States Consul 
and did much toward bringing the country under the American flag. He 
was the first and only American consul. He always maintained friendly 
relations with the Californians, and was of great service during the 
troubles with Fremont, and the trying days of the "Bear Flag Republic." 
In 1844, he established a smallpox hospital in Monterey, toward the ex- 
penses of which the Mexican government, then in the hands of Governor 
Micheltorena, contributed liberally. His house was a political and social 
center, and some of the most enjoyable dances and "cascarone balls" were 
given at Larkin's home. Colton in his diary of February 16, 1847. writes as 
follows: "I have just come from the hou'^e of Thos. O. Larkin where I left 
the youth and beauty of Monterey. This being the last night of the cas- 
carone carnival every one has broken his last shell. Two of the young- 
ladies broke their cascarones on the head of our commodore and got 
kissed bv wav of retaliation. ' 



Page Twenty-three 

(The cascarone balls were delightful festivals, in which the breaking of 
the cascarones between the dances was the principal feature. The cas- 
carone balls were given during the winter months only, the season ending 
on the evening preceding Ash Wednesday. For weeks previous to the 
cascarone season the ladies would begin to save their egg shells. A hole 
was made on one end of the tgg, and the shell tilled with cologne water, 
but most always with oropel (gold leaf finely cut) or with colored paper. 
The open end of the shell was sealed with wax when cologne was used, 
otherwise a piece of white paper cut around was pasted on the end.) 

Larkin gives the following account of the expenses incurred at one of 
these affairs: 

"Two dozen bottles wine, $19. One and a half dozen bottles of beer. 
$13.50. Thirty pies, $13. Cakes, $12. Box of raisins, $4. Cheese, $1.50. 
Nine bottles of aguardiente, (whiskey) $13.50. Music, $25. Nine pounds 
of sperm candles, $9. Five pounds of sugar, $3. Other eatable, $5. Ser- 
vants, $4." 

The Larkin house is now the property of Robt. F. Johnson, ex-mayor 
of Monterey. 



Page Tiventy-foiir 

Sherman and Halleck's Headquarters. 

Next to the Larkin house is a small adolie, huilt also hy Larkin, in 1834. 
Tt was the head(|uarters of Lieutenant Wm. T. Sherman in 1847. In his 
memoirs, General Sherman speaks of this house as "the adobe back of 
T.arkin's." This is explained by the fact that the entrance to the Larkin 
home was on Jefferson street at that time, and not on Main street, where 
it is now. 

The House of the Four Winds. 

The House of the Four Winds, so called from its having- a weather vane 
on the roof, is now the home of the Monterey Civic Club, havino- been re- 
stored two years ag'o by that public spirited body. It was also built by 
Larkin in 18v34, and for many years was used as a private residence. At the 
time of the American occupation, it was used as a store. Its historic 
value lies in the fact that it was the first Hall of Records in the state, and 
the first recorder of Monterey county, the late W. C. Johnson, had his 
office in that building; for several vears. as well as his home. 



i^SStftKt^^ 


^m 


m* 


•» 


fy 


**.32Jr 






f^mj- 


1 








m 




r 




^^;:- 


! "■ HAS-l. 


ar- *Ts.tfA 


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, .. ■ . 



— Courtesy of Grizzly Bear 
House of the Four Wimls 
(First Hall of Keroifls) 




Courtesy of Grizzly Bear 
Sheiinan's Headquarters 



Page Twenty-five 

The First Frame House. 

Besides being- the first capital of the state, Monterey is the possessor 
of many other "first things," and a wooden house that stands on Webster 
street, near the gateway of Old Monterey, happens to be the "first frame 
house in California." This historic building was brought from Australia, 
in sections, by way of Cape Horn, and was erected in 1847. The owner 
was Wm. Bushton, who had come to California with his wife and sick 
daughter, hoping that the climate of Monterey would restore her to 
health. His widow, Mrs. Janes Bushton, afterwards married Wm. Allen, 
and a son of that union, Thos. Allen, still occupies the house with his wife 
and children. 

The Robert Louis Stevenson House. 

The Stevenson house, pro])erly speaking, is the larger of two adjoining 
houses on Houston street, between Pearl and W^ebster streets, though 
each of these two houses is known as the Stevenson house. The larger 
house was the home of Jules Simoneau in 1879, with whom Stevenson 
lived. This retreat in Stevenson's hour of ndversitv ever remained ereen 



Page Twenty -six 

in his meni< »]■}'. There was always a touch of ])atlios when he referred to 
those humble, but kindly, surroundings that sheltered him when in need 
Tn an informal letter to a friend he said: 

"I call at Hadsell's for my paper; at length behold us installed in 
Simoneau's little whitewashed back room, (of Simoncau's restaurant) 
with Francois, the barber, perhaps an Italian fisherman, perhaps Augus- 
tin Dutra, and Simoneau himself. Simoneau. Francois and myself are the 
three sure cards; the others mere waifs. Then home to my great airy 
rooms with five windows opening on a balcony; T sleep on the floor in 
my camp blankets; you install yourself in bed. Tn the morning, cofifee 
with the little doctor and his little wife. We hire a wagon and make a 
day of it!" 

The smaller house with a fence in front was the home of Dona Manu- 

ela (jirardin, whose daughter was the wife or Dr. J. P. Heintz. With this 

family Stevenson also spent man}' a ])leasant hour. In the same friendly 

vein he refers to Dr. and Mrs. Heintz as the "little doctor and his little 
wife,'' as above quoted. 




—Courtesy of Grizzly Beat 



St. Catherme's Academy (California's First Convent.) 



Page Twenty-seven 

THE CONVENT. 

On the northwest corner of Main and Franklin streets is a large vacant 
lot, where once stood one of the leading educational institutions of the 
state. St. Catherine's Academy, as this school was called, was opened 
in 1851 by three nuns of the Dominican order, under the direction of the 
Right Rev. Joseph Alemany, Bishop of Monterey. 

Joseph Alemany, O. P., was a native of Spain, and feeling the call of 
the missionary, left his native country in the early forties to come to 
America. After zealously laboring in the Atlantic states, he resolved to 
pass the remainder of his life in the Spanish speaking settlements on the 
Pacific coast. In 1850 he was consecrated bishop of Monterey, and fully 
realizing the need of a school for girls, and the necessity of having relig- 
ious women to instruct the children of his new flock, he sent east for Mary 
Goemare, a French nun of the Dominican order and a most cultured 
yoimg woman. 

She came in answer to his appeal, accompanied by two other nuns, Mary 
Francis Stafford and Mary Aloysia O'Neal. They came to California by 
way of Aspinwall and Panama. From Aspinwall to Panama they trav- 
eled on mule back and on November 16, 1850, thev left Panama on the 



Page Twenty -Eight 

Steamer Columbus, reaching San Francisco on December 6th, and arriv- 
ing in Monterey a few days later. 

On the first of the new year they opened a school at the residence of 
W. E. P. Hartnell, a prominent member of the Roman Catholic church, 
and one whose life was intimately connected with the early history of Cal- 
ifornia. Owing to the increased attendance, all the pupils could not be 
accommodated, and shortly afterwards the school was moved to a new 
building on Main street, near Franklin, which was piu-chased from Don 
Manuel Jimeno, a brother-in-law of Mrs. Hartnell. 

This building had been erected as a hotel and adjoined the Jimeno 
residence. The convent was formally opened and placed under the pro- 
tecting care of St. Catherine of Sienna and named St. Catherine's 
academy. 

The first woman in California to enter the new novitiate was Maria Con- 
cepcion Arguello, the daughter of Jose .\rguello, commandante of San 
Francisco in 1806, and governor of California, 1814-1815. She was a sister 
of Louis Antonio Arguello, second governor of California under Mexican 
rule, and successor to Pablo \'icente de Sola. 



Page Twenty-nine 

There is a pathetic romance connected with the Hfe of Concepcion Ar- 
gTiello with which all readers of California history are familiar. Cotmt 
Resanoff, the Russian envoy to California in 1806, is said to have fallen in 
love with her when he met her at the Presidio in San Francisco, where 
her father was the military commander. She was then sixteen years of 
age and a beautiful yotmg woman. Before he could marry Concepcion, 
the Count had to obtain his Emperor's consent, and as soon as the pur- 
poses of his voyage were disposed of, he departed for St. Petersburg to 
obtain the Czar's consent and then return and claim his bride. 

Unfortunately, however, he was killed by a fall from his horse while 
on his way through Siberia, and Concepcion never heard of his death until 
1842, but she never doubted her suitor. She remained unwedded, re- 
nouncing the world and dedicating her life to the instruction of the young 
and the care of the sick. She followed the convent to P)enicia in 1854 and 
died there in 1857. 

xA.nother pioneer worker and teacher in the convent was Fannie O'Neal, 
the adopted sister of Mrs. Wm. Tecumseh Sherman, widow of the late 
General Sherman. 

Instruction in the Monterey Convent was given in the elementary 
branches — reading, writing, grammar and mathematics : also French., 



Page Thirty 

English, Spanish, music and needle work. The charge for tuition in the 
regular branches and board was $400 a }-ear, while day pupils were re- 
ceived for the small sum of $2 a month. The school accommodated 
about one hundred and fifty pupils, many coming from different parts of 
the state. 

Tn 1854 the convent was removed to Benicia, where, with Notre Dame 
at San Jose in later years, it still ranked as one of the foremost educa- 
tional institutions. After the convent was closed at Monterey, the Rev. 
Ci. Sorrentini, the parish priest of San Carlos church, acting under instruc- 
tions of the bishop, had the lower floor of the building made into a chapel 
and the large dormitory in the upper story was turned into a banquet hall. 
Man}' old time "fiestas" were held in this room, such as the celebrating of 
baptisms and marriages of prominent members of the church. For many 
vears the other rooms were reserved as guest rooms for the bishop and 
visiting priests. 

The building was rented later to private parties and rapidly took on 
evidences of decay, finally degenerating into an ill-kept tenement — a shel- 
ter for California Indians. It was at this period that Charles Warren 
Stoddard first saw the convent when he visited Monterey in 1885. In 
describing that visit, he afterwards wrote, "I saw her in her deca\', the 




—Cotirtt'SY of Grizzly Bear 



Wasliiiijiton Hotel (California's First Hott'I) 



Pa<ic Tliirty-one 

once flourishing- capital. The old convent was vvindowless, and its halls 
half filled with hay." 

A few years afterward the building was wrecked by order of the parish 
priest, the Rev. Angelo Casanova, and the adobe was used to level some of 
the streets of Old Monterey. 

Many tender memories still cling to old St. Catherine's and scattered 
over the state may be found many who attended this school, among them 
a large number of non-Catholic parentage whose families recognized the 
advantages of a convent training for their daughters during that early 
period. 

Washington Hotel — California's First Hotel. 

The Washington Hotel stood on the northwest corner of Washington 
and Pearl streets. Monterey at one time was proud of the possession of 
the Washington hotel. Tt was an imposing and intimate figure in the 
city's daily life. It was the "Del Monte' of Old Monterey, and in its 
prime and vigor was the center of the life of the capital of California. The 
building was erected in 1832, and for a few years was the private resi- 
dence of Don Eugenio Montenegro, who married a member of the well- 
knowai Soberanes famih^ after wdiich it was used for a hotel. Following 
the American conquest, additions were made from time to time to the 



Page Thirty-two 

orii^'iiial structure to accommodate the increasini^" demands brought 
al:)out by the new era. 

In 1849 it was owned by Don Alberto Trescony, a worker in tin, who 
arrived in California in 1841, and who later acquired a large fortune 
thrcHigh judicious investments in lands. During the First Constitutional 
Convention held in California, (the convention that gave us the constitu- 
tion of 1849), the hotel was leased by Mr. Trescony for $1200 a month to 
a former private in the regiment of Colonel J. D. Stevenson. At that 
time the hotel entertained and sheltered the delegates. It was here that 
our first organic law in its making was discussed over rich and rare vint- 
ages, to be finally put into shaj^e at Colton Hall. It was a place to be 
sought by the-bon ton alone, for its rates then were $200 a month without 
board. Bayard Taylor, the poet, who visited Monterey during the con- 
vention, wMs able to obtain a special rate of $12 a week for his board. 
Rooms were at a premium and the poet accepted the hospitality of Major 
Smith, then ])aymaster for the stations of Monterey and San Diego, who 
had his lodgings in the old Spanish "Cuartel." 

For many years the Washington hotel remained the city's chief hos- 
telry, and w^as the scene of many fashionable gatherings. Notable among 
the features of its social life were the "cascarone" balls that brouoht back 



Page Thirty-three 

again the spirit and color of a departed era. Tn the early seventies, the 
count V seat of Monterey county, which had formerly been at Monterey, 
was, by a popular vote, transferred to Salinas. This event cast a shadow 
over the old peninsula and withdrew the official life of the county govern- 
ment to the neighboring town. 

There was no recovery from this loss, and at the time of the coming of 
the queenly Del Monte, the old Washington hotel had passed the stage 
of competition. Its career was practically ended at that time, and rapidly 
began to disintegrate. From that time on to the fatal appearance of the 
wrecker in the summer of 1914, its course was consistently downward. 
Yet it went the way of all material efforts of man, with the satisfying 
distinction that it was fortunate in its association with an historical 
event that will make its name permanent in the history of the (iolden State. 

THE PRESIDIO 

The presidio and mission of Monterey were founded on June 3, 1770. 
Structures for the presidio and church were shortly afterwards erected "by 
the side of an estero or creek," also described as being ''a gunshot from 
the beach and three tinies as far from shore," where San Carlos church 
now stands. The following year the mission w^as removed to Carmel, but 
the presidio and chapel remained at Monterey. Guns were mounted by 



PageThirty-foiiy 

the w^paniards on the hill overlooking the hay, where the i)residio now is. 
In 1822 after Mexico ohtained her independence from Spain, a fort was 
huilt by the Mexicans, and about the year 1843, Governor Micheltorena 
ordered a deep ditch dug on the site of the present fort. After the Amer- 
ican occupation in 1846, a block house was built and ship guns mounted, 
bv orders of Commodore Stockton, the successor of Commodore Sloat. 
The fort was named Fort Stockton but the name was changed later to 
Fort Mervine in honor of Cai)tain Mervine, the officer in charge. Fort 
Halleck was built in 1847 by Company F, Third Artillery. Dr. James L. 
Ord, a member of that company who visited Monterey in 1892, gave the 
following information to the Monterey New Fra, regarding this fort: 
"The fort w^as named Fort Halleck in honor of Lt. H. W. Halleck of the 
corps of engineers by whom it was laid out. It was built by Lieut. F. O. 
Ord and Lieut. W. V. Sherman in 1847, and the earthworks -vere thrown up 
bv Colonel Stevenson's command, the New York A'olunteers and the regu- 
lars then stationed on the hill. 

General Sherman in his Memoirs juiblished in 1891, gives us a very 
pleasing picture of Monterey in 1847. He says: "The old Lexington with 
Company F. Third Artillery, dropped her anchor on January 26, 1847, in 
Monterev I>av, after a vovage of one hundred and ninetv-eight davs. from 



Pa!>i' Thirty -Jive 

New York. Everything on shore looked bright and beautiful, the hills 
covered with grass and flowers, the live oaks so serene and homelike, 
and the low adobe houses, with red-tiled roofs and whitened w^alls, con- 
trasted w^ell with the dark pine trees behind, making a decidedly good 
impression upon us who had come so far to spy the land. Nothing could be 
more peaceful in its looks than Monterey in 1847. There was a small 
wharf and an adobe custom house in possession of the navy; also a bar- 
racks of two stories, occupied by some marines, commanded by Lt. Mad- 
dox ; and on a hill to the west of the town had been built a two story 
block house of hewed logs, occupied bv a guard of sailors under command 
of Lt. Baldwin, U. S. N."' 

General Stephen Kearney was the military governor of Monterey at 
this time, w^th headquarters at U. S. Consul Larkin's home. At the end 
of May he was succeded by Richard R. B. Mason, First Dragoons. At this 
time Sherman writes as follows: "California had settled down to a condition 
of absolute respose, and we naturally repined at our fate in being so re- 
mote from the war in Mexico, where our comrades were reaping large 
honors. Mason dwelt in a house not far from the Custom House, with 
Captain Lanman, U. S. N. T had a small adobe house back of Larkin's. 
Halleck and D. Murrav hrid a small log house not far off. The company 



Page Thirty six 

oi artillery was still on the hill, under the command of Lieut. Ord. en^-ao'ed 
in huildini^- a fort whereon to mount the gams we had brought in the Lex- 
ington, also in constructing quarters out of hewn pine logs for the men." 

The present Presidio at ]\Ionterey was established in 1900, and is one 
of the important militar}- posts of the L'nited States. 

Point Pinos Light House. 

r\)int Pinos Light House is located at Point Pinos, about two miles west 
of Pacific Grove. It is one of the oldest stations on the coast, being first 
erected February 5, 1855. It is a "fixed light" — that is, it does not re- 
volve and flash. A history of Monterey county, published in 1893, gives 
the following description of the light: 'Tt is a white light of the third order, 
of ninety candle power, and is visible at a distance of fifteen and one- 
fourth nautical miles. The light is supplemented by a whistling buoy of 
the fu'st class, audible for a distance of six miles. The light is surrounded 
1)y a catoptric lens of the third order." 

Point Pinos is a one-kee])er show station and its first keeper was 
(diaries Lavton. 



Page Thirty-seven 

HOME OF SENORITA BONIFACIO. 

One of the most widely known landmarks of Monterey is the home of 
the late Senorita Maria Ygnacia Bonifacio. In the garden fronting the 
house on Alvarado street grows the famous "Sherman Rose." About 
this rose has been woven a romance, a pure and unadulterated bit of tiction 
that made its appearance in the eighties, from whence no one knows. 

The rose, as the story runs, was given to Miss Bonifacio by Lieuten- 
ant William Tecumseh Sherman when he had been ordered east, and while 
calling on his lady love for the last time, with the promise that when it 
bloomed he would come and claim her as his bride. Together they 
planted the rose, vownng to remain true to each other until his return to 
her. 

The general never returned, the promise was never fulfilled, and Miss 
Bonifacio is made to spend the remainder of her life in unrequited love. 
The story is an utter fabrication, a li )el on the gallant record of the famous 
general, and a great injustice to the fair name of a good woman. 

To the relatives and intimate friends of ^fiss Bonifacio, this story was 
most ridiculous, but in its oft repetition in later days it grew to be a 
source of annoyance and indignation. Miss Bonifacio knew Lieutenant 
Sherman, and in common with the voun«- ladies of Mc^nterev in that earlv 



Page Thirty-eight 

(la\', received the attention of Lieut. Sherman that grew out of the social 
events of that period. 

It is well known in Monterey that at this time Aliss Bonifacio was en- 
o-ag-ed to a young Spanish Californian, Don Pedro Estrada, a brother of 
Dona Josefo de Abrego, and half brother of Gov. Alvarado ; while Lt. Sher- 
man was at the same time engaged to Miss Ewing, whom he afterwards 
married. Miss Bonifacio never married her youthful lover, Pedro Estrada. 
For some reasons her mother opposed the marriage, and she never ()])posed 
her mother's wish. •/ 

Relatives of Miss Bonifacio, an elderl}' aunt, and first cousin, who lived 
at the time to which the Sherman story relates, are yet alive and living in 
?^rontcrey, and bear testimony to the absurdity of the tale. 

Furthermore, T was born and reared in the house of my grandmother. 
Dona Maria Antonia Castro de Sanchez, which stood diagonally across 
the street from the Bonifacio home. T knew Miss Bonifacio intimately, 
and to me she has often repeated that the story was without foundation, and 
that people persisted in its repetition to her so often that in her later 
vears she got tired of denying it. 

She also denied the story to Mrs. Nellie \'an de Grift Sanchez, her 
cousin bv marriage, who shortly af<"er Miss Bonifacio's death published 



Page Thirty-nine 

an article in Sunset magazine on the "True story of (jeneral Sherman and 
Miss Bonifacio." 

The facts here stated are the truth of the matter. They may shatter an 
attractive fiction, and spoil the commercial value of the "Sherman Rose/' 
yet they are due the memory of the beautiful Senorita Bonifacio, who, 
onh^ a little over a year ago, was laid to rest in the old Monterey church 
yard, where loving friends, amid their tears, bade a sad farewell to this 
sweet and kindly soul. 

THE ABREGO HOME. 

This old home has an interesting history. It was built by Don Jose 
Abrego, a Mexican merchant of Spanish parentage, who came to Monterey 
in 1834, with the Hijar colonists, on the vessel Natalia, which is said to be 
the vessel on which Napoleon escaped from the isle of Elba. In 1835, the 
vessel was sold to smug"g"lers who carried on their business for a few 
months. One night while the men were on shore a heavy northeast g'ale 
parted the anchor chain and she drifted ashore and was wrecked. Portions 
of the timbers of this historic vessel were used by Don Jose Abrego in 
building- his house. In 1836 he married Josefa Estrada, a half sister of 
Governor Alvarado, and moved at once into a part of the house which he 
had built, and to which additions were afterwards made. 



Pase Forfv 



In this home was one of the hrst pianos ever Ijroug-ht to Cahfornia. A 
paper on the inside of it written by Don Jose, had the following informa- 
tion : 

"In 1841 Captain Stephen Smith arrived with his vessel in Afonterey, and 
1 engaged him to bring me a piano on his next trip to the country. In 
March. 1843, he returned to this city in a brigantine; he had three pianos 
on board. I botight this one of him for $600. lie then sailed for San 
Francisco where General Vallejo [)urchased another of the pianos. The 
third one was afterwards sold by Captain Smith to E. de Celis at Los An- 
geles." This piano is now in the possession of Airs. Francis Davis, San 
Francisco, a grand-daughter of Senor Abrego. The Abrego piano is a six 
octave made by Reitko])t and Hartel, Leipzig, imported by lirauns &: Fau- 
kem, Laltimore. 

This home was the scene of many a social gathering, cascarone ])arties, 
receptions, etc.. and up to the time of Mrs. Abrego's death in the 
"nineties." the most i)rominent and distinguished visitors to Monterey 
were entertained in this historic house. 

Bayard Ta}lor, the poet, who visited Monterey in 1849, was entertained 
at this home and in his "El Dorado," he writes as follows: 

"I attended an evening party at the house of Senor Abrego, which was 



Page Foi ty-one 

as lively and agreeable as any occasion of the kind well could be. There 
was a piano in the parlor on which a lady from Sydney, Australia, played 
with a good deal of taste. Two American gentlemen gave us a few choice 
flute duets and the entertainment closed by a Spanish quadrille in which 
a little son of Senor Abrego figured to the general admiration." 

THE PACHECO HOUSE. 

The Pacheco house on the southwest corner of Abrego and Webster 
streets, on the opposite corner from the Abrego home, was built in 1840 
by Don Francisco Perez Pacheco who came from Mexico in 1819, with the 
artillery detachment under Jose Ramirez, Mexican sub-lieutenant of the 
artillery. Don Francisco Pacheco was claimant for the San Felipe, San 
Justo and San Luis Gonzaga ranchos, and became one of the wealthiest 
land owners of Monterey county, besides being always a man of good 
character, excellent reputation and much influence. His daughter mar- 
ried Don Mariano Malarin, a member of another prominent California 
faniily. For many years this was the summer home of the Malarin family. 
Munras House (Now the Home of T. J. Field.) 

Landmarks usually bear out their name, and have about them evidences 
of the wear and tear of time, but it is not so with a most respectable edi- 
fice that stands conspicuously at the very gatew^ay of old ^^lonterey. The 



Page Forty-tiro 

1)iilk of the modern travel, that has passed this house for the last quarter 
of a century, has been totally oldivious of its historical value and has 
simply looked upon it as an attractive modern home. 

As Monterey boasts of so many landmarks, it seems but an act of jus- 
tice that public attention be called to its origin and builder, and that it be 
accorded its ])roper place amons: the things noteworthy in this historic 
locality. This house was erected in 1824 by Don Esteban Munras, a 
Spaniard from Barcelona, who left his native country to go to Lima, Peru, 
in the employ of the Spanish government. In 1820 he came to Monterey, 
with the purpose of engaging in trading operations. After a two years' 
residence, he married Catalina Manzanelli, the daughter of Nicolas Man- 
zanelli, a silk merchant from Genoa, Italy, and of Casilda Ponce de Leon, 
a lineal descendant of the great Spanish explorer and navigator. 

Don Este])an was the first to build a pretentious dw^elling in Monterey. 
In the early days of the settlement, the Presidio housed practically the en- 
tire population. Besides the barracks, ofificers' quarters and dw^elling" 
houses for the officers' families, civilians and their families also had their 
residences within the confines : due, no doubt, to the dangers of attacks 
by Indians before the country became thoroughly subdued. 

The interior of this house has not been changed. The exterior has a 



Page Forty-tlircc 

modern coating, hiding and obscuring the faithful adobe that still retains 
its strength and security against the future years. Its roof also has added 
angles and is a substantial departure from the old, making it quite neces- 
sary, in order to give honor where honor is due, that its story be repeated 
to those who are shut out from the light by its modern aspect. 

In this house was constructed what is probably one of the first, if not the 
first, fireplace built in a home in California, and the original andirons are 
still preserved in the fireplace of the home. The general mode of heating 
in those days was by means of "el brazero' (the brazier) — an iron or 
other hard metal vessel filled with live coals. San Carlos church, which is 
now seen to the east of this house, was situated at the southern limits of 
the presidio and constituted the Royal Chapel. Don Esteban's home being 
just outside of the presidio was situated near the southwestern corner of 
the Presidio. The Royal Chapel has also seen some changes. It is now 
known, as has been intimated, as San Carlos church. It has lost its tiled 
roof, and has been enlarged by the addition of wings, though its type of 
architecture is not alTected. 

The Munras home has not passed to strangers, but still remains in the 
family. Catalina Danglada Field, grand-daughter of Don Esteban, and 
daughter of Prof. Danglada and Maria Antonia Munras, is the presiding 



Page Foriy-foiir 

mistress. Aliss Danglada married tlie Hon. Thos. J. Field, president uf the 
Bank of Monterey. Two children bless the union, Maria Antonia, author 
of "Chimes of Mission Bells," and Stephen, civil engineer. 

THE COOPER HOME. 

This house stands on 508 Munras avenue. It was built in 1829 by Capt. 
J. 1). R. Cooper, a pioneer of 1823. Mr. Cooper was a native of Alderney 
Fsland, England, and came to Massachusetts as a boy with his mother, 
who, by a second marriage, become the mother of Thos. O. Larkin, the 
tirst and only American consul. Captain Cooper came to Monterey from 
Boston in 1823. as master of "The Rover." He sold the vessel afterwards 
to (iovernor /\rguello but continued to command her until 1826. In 1827 
he was baptized in the Roman Catholic church and the same year he mar- 
ried Encarnacion A'allejo, a sister of (ieneral Guadalupe Vallejo. Erom 
1826 to 1848 Mr. Cooper's name appears frequently in the original rec- 
ords. He was a man (^f splendid character, well liked and respected. 

The Cooper home is now the propertv of the E. J. Molera family, San 
Francisco, and is used as a summer home. Mrs. Molera was formerly 
:\melia Cooper, and is a daughter of the late Captain Cooper. 



I'di^e Forty-five 

THE AMESTI HOUSE. 

This house is a two story adobe building- with a small garden in front, 
and is situated on 514-516 Polk street, near the Cooper house. As nearly 
as can be ascertained it was built in 1825 by Don Jose Amesti, a Spanish 
Basque who came to Monterey in 1822. at the age of thirty. In 1824 he 
married Prudenciana \'aIlejo, sister of General Vallejo and of Mrs. J. B. 
R. Cooper already mentioned. In 1841 he was "juez" (judge) of Mon- 
tere^^ and in 1844 he served as alcalde. 

THE MERRITT HOUSE. 

The Merritt house is a two story adobe building on 338 Pacific street, 
next to the Presbyterian church. It was the residence of Judge Merritt, 
the first county judge of Monterey county. 

Josiah Merritt was a native of Orange county. New York. He was 
educated in his native state, then studied law and was admitted to the bar 
in New York city where he practiced his profession for several years. Tn 
1845 he moved to Illinois, w^here he pursued his profession for a few 
years, coming to California in 1849. He reached Monterey in January, 
1850, and took an active part in organizing Monterey county in 1851. He 
was chosen as the first judge, serving from 1851 to 1854. ludge Merritt 



Page Forty-six 

was twice married, first in New York where his wife died, leaving two 
sons, Caleb, a business man of Newbury-on-the-TIudson, and Sylvander, an 
engineer on the Erie railroad, and afterwards mayor of Port Jarvis, N. Y. 
In the latter part of 1850, Judge Merritt married his second wife, Juana 
Castro, daughter of Simeon Castro, alcalde of Monterey, and a very 
])rominent citizen. Five children were born to this union, two sons 
and three daughters. The oldest son, Joseph, was editor of the San Jose 
Mercury in 1882, and in 1884 was on the editorial stafif of the San Jose 
Daily FTerald. The house is now the home of Judge Merritt's youngest 
daughter, Mrs. W. C. Fiedler. 

THE SOBERANES HOME. 

The Soberanes house on 314 Pacific street is near the Merritt residence. 
It is a pictm^esque two story adobe building, built by Don Ygnacio V^al- 
lejo, father of (icneral M. G. A'allejo. Tn after years it became the property 
of the Estrada family, and now is the home of Mr. and Mrs. E. Soberanes, 
descendants of two prominent Spanish-California families. 

THE DOUD HOME. 

The Doud home on Van Buren street should not be omitted from the 
list of historical landmarks of Monterev. Tt is one of the first houses 



Page Forty-sevoi 

built after the American occupation, and was erected by Francis Doud, a 
pioneer of 1849, and a Mexican war veteran. Mr. Doud was a native of 
Ireland and at the age of sixteen left his native land to come to New 
York. In 18vS8 he joined the United States army to fight the Indians and 
took an active part in the second Seminole war in Florida, which began 
in 1835 and ended in 1842. 

He continued in the government and entered the Mexican war in 1846; 
was wounded at the siege of \'era Cruz and later at Cerro Cordo, in con- 
sequence of which he was honorably discharged in 1847. A bronze medal 
was presented to Mr. Doud by the Mexican \'eteran Association for his 
gallant and meritorious service. 

After the close of the Mexican war he became a private citizen and came 
to Monterey in 1849, where he engaged in the butchering business, con- 
ducting a meat market for several years. Fie died in his home on \'an 
Buren street, and left valuable property in the Salinas valley. The home 
is now the property of Mr. Doud's unmarried daughter, ^liss Mary. 

OTHER HOMES. 

Besides the landmarks already named are still to be found ci few^ more 
buildings, built during the Mexican regime, which might be mentioned, 
such as the summer home of General lose Castro, on the outskirts of 



Page Forty-eight 

llie town and east of San Carlos church. 

The Escolle home, an attractive adobe with a garden in front, on 153 
Hartnell street. It was originally the home of Mr. H. Escolle, a successful 
French merchant and a prominent citizen in many respects. This house 
is now the home of Mr. and Mrs. M. M. Gragg, the latter being the 
daughter of the late B. \'. Sargent, a pioneer of 1858 and a prominent old 
resident of Monterey. 

The home of Dona Maria Ygnacia Sanchez, a two story abode building 
with a balcony in front, next to the Underwood house; — a relic of the 
old regime on modern Alvarado street. 

The residence of Dona Dolores Osio on Alvarado street with an en- 
trance and garden on Main street. 

The Duckworth and Tores homes; the former, on the hill back of Lar- 
kin's house, and the latter, back of Colton Hall, and in a splendid state 
of preservation. 

The house built by (Jovernor Alvarado, which, by the way, was never 
his home, notwithstanding the sign on the house and post cards; and the 
house used as the Gift Shop and Tearoom, which is known as the First 
Federal Court building, although old residents sa}' that no court of any 
descri])tion was ever held there. 



Page Fortyiiiiie 

GOVERNORS OF CALIFORNIA. 

As Monterey was the capital of Alta California during the Spanish and Mexican regimes, 
and as all the governors, with the exception of three, had their residence at Monterey, a list 
of those officials might be of interest to our readers: 

Spanish Governors. 

Gaspar de Portola 1770-1771 Jose de Arrillaga (ad interim) 1792-1794 

Felipe de Barri 1771-1774 Diego de Borico 1794-1800 

Felipe de Neve 1774-1782 Jose J. de Arrillaga 1800-1814 

Pedro Fages 1782-1790 Jose Arguello (ad interim) 1814-1815 

Jose Antcnio Romeu 1790-1792 Pablo Vicente de Sola 1815-1822 

Mexican Governors. 

Pablo Vicente de Sola 1822-1823 Nicholas Gutierrez 1836 

Luis Arguello (Spanish-Calif.) 1823-1825 Mariana Chico 1836 

Jose M. Echeandia 1825-1831 Nicolas Gutierrez 1836-1842 

Manuel Victoria 1831-1832 Juan B. Alvarado (Spanish-Calif) 1842 

*Pio Pico (Spanish-Calif.) 1832-1833 Manuel Micheltorena 1842-1845 

Jose Figueroa 1833-1835 Pio Pico .....1845-1846 

* !=Jose Castro (Spanish-Calif.) ^.1835-1836 

Military Governors (American) 

Commodore John Sloat July 7. 1846, to July 29, 1846 

Commodore Robert F. Stockton July 29, 1846. to March 1, 1847 

Brigadier Stephen W. Kearney March 1, 1847, to May 31, 1847 

Colonel Richard D. Mason May 31. 1847, to April 13. 1849 

General Bennett Riley April 13. 1849, to Dec. 20. 1849 

First American Governor (State) 

Peter H. Burnett Dec. 20, 1849, to Jan. 9, 1851 

*First cousin of the writer's great grandmother. 
**First cousin of the writer's grandmother. 



Page Fifty 

IMPORTANT EVENTS CONNECTED WITH THE HISTORY OF 

MONTEREY. 

1542. 
Monterey bay discovered by Cabri]l<\ a Portiii^uese navigator in tbe 
eniplov of the Spanish g-overnment, and named "I.a Rahia de los Pinos" 
(The 'P.av of Pines). 

1602. 
Landing (^f Sel)astian X'iscaino and the place named "Monterey," mean- 
ing the "Forest of the King," literally "monte del rey" and not "mountain 
king." as interpreted bv man v. 

1770. 
Arrival of Padro. Junipero Serra, president of the Franciscan missions, 
and founding of San Carlos mission and presidio of Monterey. Monterey 
beco-mes the military and ecclesiastical capital of Alta California. 

1771. 
San Carlos mission removed to Carmel. The presidio and chapel re- 
main at ^Monterey where San Carlos church now stands. 

1773. 
The first authoritv for grantino- lands in California, given bv the Vice- 



Page Fifty-one 

ro}^ of Mexico to Commandante Rivera y Moncada upon the occasion of 
his appointment to the office of commandante. Under these instructions 
the first land grant in Cahfornia is made to one Manuel Butron, a soldier 
of the presidio of Monterey, who had married an Indian neophyte named 
Margarita Maria. The land granted was near Carmel mission. 

1779. 
First complete system or code of legislation for the provinces of the 
Californias (Lower and Upper) is framed by Governor Felipe de Neve, 
third governor af California, and dated June 1, 1779, at the Royal Pre- 
sidio of San Carlos de Monterey. These laws contained full provisions for 
the government of the presidios and other families connected with the 
military service; also for the colonization of the country and distribution 
of pueblo lands. 

1782. 
Arrival of the first European woman to California. Dona Eulalia, or 
"Senora (jobernadora," wife of Governor Fages, fourth governor of Cali- 
fornia, arrives at the i)residio of Monterey. 

1786. ' 
First scientific expedition and first foreign vessel to come to California. 
In this vear the P)av of Monterev and the surrounding countrv are visited 



Page Fifty -two 



1)\- the famous La Perouse, the French navigator and explorer, who was 
sent by Louis X\"I with an organized expedition to explore the remote 
parts of the world. La Perouse is accompanied by 200 scientists of the 
most polished court in Europe. According to the report of La Perouse. 
published in 1792, Monterey was then the capital of Upper and Lower 
California and Lieutenant Colonel Pedro Pages was the resident gov- 
ernor, his authority extending over the two Californias and comprising 
territorv not less than eight hundred leagues in circumference. Yet two 
hundred and eighty-two soldiers were the only subjects of this extended 
domain, the fifty thousand wanderino- Indians being subjects of mission 
control. 

The white population of Monterey consisted of Governor Pages, 
with his family and servants, and thirty Spanish soldiers stationed 
at the iovt, together with the priests of San Carlos Mission, founded 
by Junipero Serra in 1770. Here in this limited community the French 
visitors were received with open arms. The home of Governor Pages and 
his servants was placed at their disposal and so courteous and friendly 
w\as the attitude of the garrison that La Perouse, to show his apprecia- 
tion. ])resented the soldiers with bolts of handsome blue cloth. 

Father Lasuen, president of the missions, and the other padres of Car- 



Page Fifty -three 

mel Mission, about two leagues from the presidio, were most kindly in 
their offices, and an invitation was acce])ted by the visitors to dine at the 
mission. They w^ere received in splendid fashion and were given much in- 
formation concerning the work of the Franciscan missionaries in this primi- 
tive part of the world. Under such friendly auspices the scientists began 
to explore and study the surrounding country and its primitive people. 

The Indians of the peninsula, according to the accounts of La Perouse. 
were of tw^o tribes, namely, the Achastliens and the Ecclemachs, each 
speaking a different language, while the converted Indians spoke a lan- 
guage composed of both. Their abstract terms were scanty, and their 
epithets for qualities of moral objects wxre almost borrowed from the sense 
of taste. They distinguished the plural from the singular number and 
varied their verbs through several tenses. Their substantives were much 
more numerous than their adjectives, and none of the Indians with(^ut dif- 
ficulty could count otherwise than i^pon their fingers beyond the number 
of five. Hunting and fishing were the chief resources upon which the In- 
dians originally depended for their means of subsistence, and maize was 
the oricrinal object of the Indian agriculture in these part^. 

The Indian population of San Carlos Mission consisted of about 750 
persons, including men, women and children. They lived in some fifty 



Page Fifty-four 

huts near the church which they preferred to the houses built by the mis- 
sionaries. These people had no other doors to their huts than simple 
bundles of straw, yet no instance of theft ever occurred among them. 
Seven hours of the day were allotted to labor and two hours to devotional 
exercises. Their breakfast and supper consisted of "atole" — a porridge 
of barley meal boiled in water — and their dinner of "possole," differing 
from atole only in being thicker and having corn, maize, peas and beans 
n]ixed wMth it. 

La Perouse gave the missionaries for the use of the Indians many use- 
ful articles, including beads, coverlids and a variety of tools of iron. The 
gardener belonging to the frigates gave them potatoes, w^hich the scien- 
tists had brought from Chili and also seeds and grain from France. The 
introduction of potatoes into California and the dissemination of seeds 
and grain from another country were the most important services confer- 
red upon the state by La Perouse, and for which he must always be con- 
sidered a benefactor. 

Tt was so late in the season that the botanists had only a lim- 
ited o|)portunite}' to study the flow^ering plants and the common 
wormwocjd, sea wormwood, mugwort, Mexican tea, golden rod of Can- 
ada, milf(^il, deadly nightshade, sand verbena and water mint were the 



Page Fifty-five 

only remarkable plants observed in the fields ot Monterey. 

La Perouse and his staff of scientists remained only ten days in Cali- 
fornia, and saw no other portion of what is now the state, but the penin- 
sula of Monterey. On September 24, 1786, they set sail from Montere3^ 
bound for the Orient. 

Sailing northward they arrived at Kamchatka on September 7, 1787, 
where they were most cordially received by the Russian authorities. From 
Kamchatka one of the scientists was sent overland to France with the 
records of the expedition, together with the various collections, includ- 
ing seeds, dried plants and shells from Monterey. 

In this collection was the pink sand verbena, which was analyzed in 
France and named "Abronia umbellata," and which has the distinction 
of being the first flower of California to receive its scientific name. 

1792. 

Arrival of the first American in California. In this year Alejandro Mal- 
aspina, Spanish navigator, landed at Monterey and with him came John 
Groem (perhaps Graham), son of John and Mary Groem, Presbyterians 
from Boston. Groem had shipped as a gunner of this expedition from 
Cadiz. He remains at Monterey, is baptized by the missionaries, and 
when he dies is buried at San Carlos mission. 



Page Fifty-six 

Tn this same year (jeorg'e X'ancouver, the EngHsh explorer, visits Mon- 
terey and is hospitably entertained by the missionaries. He writes as 
follows: "Our reception at the mission could not fail to convince us of 
the joy and satisfaction we communicated to the worthy fathers, who in 
return made the most hospitable ofifer of every refreshment the homely 
abode afforded." X'ancouver discovers the famous Pinnacles near Sole- 
dad. X'isits Monterey as.i"ain in 17^4. 

1818. 
The Year of the Insurgents. 

Monterey is attacked by pirates under Bouchard, a privateer from South 
America. With two armed vessels thty bombard the town, capture and 
hold the fort for four days, and after setting- fire to the presidio and fort 
and the houses of the g-overnor and commandante and after doing- other 
considerable damage thev departed down the coast. 

1821. 

First vaccination in California. The surgeon of the Russian boat Kut- 
usof while in Monterey bay vaccinates fifty-four persons during- the epi- 
demic of 1<'^21. 

1822. 

Mexico revolts from Spain and establishes herself as a separate empire. 



Page Fifty-seven 

Governor Sola, last Spanish governor of California, calls a meeting of the 
military and church officials and formally announces the action of Mex- 
ico. Monterey reluctantly becomes the Mexican capital and Sola as re- 
luctantly becomes the first Mexican governor of California. Augustin 
Iturbide, a half Indian, is crowned emperor of Mexico in July, 1822, and 
when the news reaches Monterey in April, 1823, the oath of allegiance to 
the emperor is taken at Monterey. 

1823. 

W. E. P. Hartnell, an English merchant and an accomplished scholar 
and linguist, with his partner, Hugh McCulloch, establishes at Monterey 
the first commercial house in California, as a branch of a firm in Lima, 
Peru. 

1824 

The Afexican provinces revolt from the Iturbide empire and establish a 
republic. A few months pass and Iturbide is forced to abdicate the throne 
and is banished from Mexico. Mexico becomes a republic and the im- 
perial banner is supplanted by the red, white and green of the republic. 
Thus, Alonterey, the capital of Alta California, in little more than one 
year, passes under three forms of government — that of a kingdom, an em- 
pire and a republic. 



I'diic Fijtyelo/it 

182S. 

^[exic() adopts liberal colonization laws and authorizes the governors 
to grant unoccupied lands to all settlers who agreed to cultivate and re- 
side on them. Many settlers availed themselves of this opportunity and 
N'asl tracts of land are granted. 

1834. 

[ose Maria Hijar, director of colonization, arrives in Monterey from 
Mexico with 150 colonists for the purpose of secularizing the missions. San 
Carlos mission is secul'irized. In this same \'ear the first printing press and 
tvpes to come to California arc brought to Monterey by Governor 
Figueroa. 

1836. 

Insurrections arise in Monterey, which linally terminate in the Ameri- 
can conquest of California. Disputes arise between Governor N. Gutier- 
rez and Juan !>. Alvarado, Secretary of the Territorial Deputation, concern- 
ing the administration of the custom house, resulting in the ousting of 
(iutierrez, and Alvarado being chosen b}- the people, governor of Califor- 
nia, and (luadalupe \ allejo, military commander. 

1842. 

Premature taking- of Monterev bv .Americans. Commodore A. P. ('at- 



Page Fifly-niiif 

esby Jones, in cumiiiand of the U. vS. Meet on the Pacific coast, under llie 
impression that war had been declared between the United States and Mex- 
ico entered the harbor of Monterey, captured the fort and raised the 
Stars and Stripes. The next day, findino;- himself in error he hauled down 
his colors and huml)ly apologized to tlie Mexican authorities for his 
conduct. 

1845. 
In May, 1845, the United States government sent John C. Fremont, a 
topographical engineer, in charge of a scientific expedition to the Pacific 
coast. The expedition, consisting of sixty-two men, reached California 
in January, 1846, and encamped in the Sacramento valley. Fremont pro- 
ceeded alone to Monterey, to explain to the ofi:"icials the objects of his 
presence in the territory and to buy supplies for his men whom he had 
left in the Sacramento valley. Tn company with U. S. Consul Thos. O. 
Parkin he called on the "'T^refect Manuel Castro, and informed him that 
he was engaged in a scientific survey of a road to the Pacific coast, and 
that he desired to pass the remainder of the winter in California, with the 
intention of leaving for Oregon in the spring. Permission was given 
him to remain in California with the understanding that the exploring 

*Manuel Castro, brother of the writer's grandmother. 



Page Sixty 

])cirl\- was not to enter the settlements of the countrw After obtaining 
the necessary supplies, Fremont returned to the Sacramento valley, but on 
the first of March he moved with all his men to the Alisal ranch, near 
Salinas. 

In the meantime, the Mexican government had Ijegun to take measures 
against the American immigration that had begun to pour into the coun- 
try, and had issued instructions to Pio Pico, the governor of California, 
to drive out the American families who had settled on the frontiers. 

Hearing that Fremont w-as encamped in the Alisal, Prefect Manuel 
Castro wrote him the following letter: 

(I'ranslation. ) 

Prefecture of the 2nd District, 
Monterey, March 5, 1846. 
Senor Cajitain J. C. Fremont: 

T have learned with much dissatisfaction that in contempt of the laws 
and authorities of the Mexican republic vou have entered the towns of the 
district under my charge, with an armed force which the government of 
your nation must have placed under }'our command for the sole purpose 
of examininjj' its own tcrritor\'. 



Page Sixty-one 

That this prefecture orders you imnidiately on the receipt of this com- 
munication to Avithdraw from the lim'ts of this department, with the under- 
standing that if you do not comply, this prefecture will take the measures 
necessary to compel you to respect this determination. God and liberty. 
MANUEL CASTRO, Prefect of the Second District. 

Fremont, instead of leaving, immediately moved to a point on the sum- 
mit of the Gabilan mountains, called by the Californians, "El Picacho del 
Gabilan" (Hawk's Peak), but now known as Fremont's Peak. The higher 
official, Cieneral Jose Castro, who was at San Juan Bautista, also sent Fre- 
mont a letter asking him to leave. Fremont, however, did not leave, but 
on March 7, raised the American flag. General Jose Castro gathered his 
men, about two hundred in number, but did not attack Fremont. After 
three days' waiting Fremont and his party abandoned their camp and pro- 
ceeded to the north toward Sacramento. General Castro did not attempt to 
follow him, but on March 13 issued his proclamation calling Fremont and 
his men a band of highwaymen who had dared to raise the American 
flag and defy the authorities. Fremont, on the other hand, wrote to his 
wife that his sense of duty did not permit him to fight the Californians, 
but that he retired slowlv and o-rowlin"iv. 



Page Sixty-tico 



Fremont's actions have 1)een sharpl}' criticized by various historians and 
especially by Bancroft and Professor Bryce, while others defend him, 
stating" that Fremont's course was strictly in the line of self defense and 
self preservation, and not at all in the line of aggression. While it is true 
that Fremont's expedition was purely scientific and that soldiers were ex- 
cluded from its ranks in its formation, yet the effects of the mipending 
storm of war was in the air; and under its pressure, no doubt, Fremont 
was led to act with a view to the future conquest of the country. 

Fremont afterwards took an active part in the events leading to the final 
conquest of California. His headquarters were at Monterey when Cali- 
fornia was under military rule, and the house occupied by him may be 
seen on Hartnell street, around the corner from the Cift Shop and Tea 
room. 

1846. 

The most notable year in the history of Monterey. 
War having been declared between the United States and Alexico over 
the annexation of Texas. Commodore John D. Sloat, commander of the 
Pacific squadron, arrived in Monterey on the frigate Savannah, and on 
July 7, 1846, raised the Stars and Stripes over the old Custom House, end- 
ing Mexican rule over California forever. Before sending his men ashore, 



Page Sixty-three 

Sloat issued the followini;- proclamation wliich he read to them on board 
the vessel : 

Flag Ship, Savannah, July 7, 1846. 

We are now about to land on the territory of Mexico with whom the 
United States is at war. To strike their flag- and hoist our own in place 
of it, is our duty. Tt is not only our duty to take California, but to ])re- 
serve it afterwards as a part of the United States at all hazard; to accom- 
plish this it is of the flrst importance to cultivate the good opinion of the 
inhabitants and reconcile them to the change. 

We know how to take those who oppose use, but it is the peaceful and 
unoffending inhabitants whom we must reconcile. I scarcely consider it 
necessary for me to caution American seamen and marines against the 
detestable crime of plundering and maltreating unoffending inhabitants. 

That no one may misunderstand his duty, the following regulations must 
be stricth' adhered to, as no violation can hope to escape the severest pun- 
ishment: 

1. On landing, no man is to leave the shore until the commanding offi- 
cer gives the order to march. 

2. No gun is to be tired, or other act of hostility committed, without 
express orders from the officer commanding the party. 



Pdi^c Sixty- four 

3. The officers and boat keepers will keep their respective boats as close 
to the shore as they will safely fioat, taking care they do not lay aground, 
and remain in them prepared to defend themselves against attack, and 
attentively watch for signals from ships as well as from the party on shore. 

4. No man is to (juit the ranks or to enter any house for any pretence 
whatever, without express orders from an officer. T.et every man avoid 
insult or olfense to any unoffending inliabitant, and especially avoid that 
eternal disgrace which would be attached to our names and our coimtry's 
name by indignity offered to a single female, even let her standing, be how- 
ever low it may. 

5. Plunder of every kind is strictly forbidden; not only does the plun- 
dering of the smallest article from a prize forfeit all claim to prize money, 
but the offender must expect to be severely punished. 

6. Finally, let me entreat you. one and all. not to tarnish our hope of 
bright success by any act that we shall be ashamed to acknowledge be- 
fore God and our countrv. 

JOHN SLOAT, 
Conmiander in Chief of the U. S. Naval Force in the Pacific Ocean. 
Commodore Sloat acts as military governor until August 17. He is suc- 
ceeded by Commodore Stockton, and Walter Colton. the chaplain of the 



Page Sixty-five 

frigate Congress, is appointed provisional Ah-alde of ^lonterew At a regular 
election held in September he is elected to continue in the office. The of- 
fice of Alcalde of Monterey was a very important one. In his diary which 
Colton afterwards published, he writes: '"The office of Alcalde involved jtu-- 
isdiction over every breach of the peace, every case or crime, every business 
obligation, and every disputed land title within a circuit of three hundred 
miles. To it there was an appeal from the court of every other Alcalde in 
the district, but there was none from it to an}' higher tribunal. There was 
not a judge on any bench in the United States or England whose power 
was so absolute as that of the Alcalde of Monterey." 

Colton empanelled the first jury ever summoned in California on Septem- 
ber 4, 1846. The plaintiff, an Englishman named Isaac Graham, charged 
Carlos Roussillon, a Frenchman, with stealing lumber. As one-third of 
the jury were Americans, one-third Mexicans and one-third Californians, 
Mr. W. E. P. Hartnell was appointed interpreter. (It may be interesting 
to our readers to know that the writer's grandfather, Don Rafael Sanchez, 
served on that jury.) 

In connection with Robert Semple, Colton established the first news- 
paper ever published in California. It was called the "Californian" and 
made its first appearance on August 15. 1846. The printing press used 



Page Sixty -six 

was the same one that was brought 1)\- ( Jovernor Figueroa in 1834. The 
paper was printed on paper originally intended for the manufacture of cig- 
aritos, and was a little larger than a sheet of foolscap. 

1848. 
Intelligence of the discovery of gold on the x^merican Fork reaches 
Monterey. Soon commenced a rush to the mines which depopulated the 
town, frf)m which it took years to recover. 

1849. 
The government being semi-civil and semi-military and partly Ameri- 
can and partly Mexican, Bennett Riley then military governor of Califor- 
nia, called a convention to meet at Monterey on the first of September, 
1849, for the purpose of framing a state constitution. First Constitutional 
Convention meets at Colton Hall, September 1, 1849. 

1850. 

Tn April, 1850, the county of Monterey is organized with Monterey as 
the county seat. Josiah Merritt, a New York attorney and pioneer of 
January. 1850, is chosen first judge of Monterey county. 

California is admitted into the Union on September 9, and Monterey be- 
comes the American state capital. 



Page Sixty-seven 

1851. 

By an act of the legislature passed April, 1851, the town is duly incor- 
porated as a city and PhiHp A. Roach is elected the first mayor of Monte- 
rev. 

1872. 

The county seat is removed from Monterey to Sahnas where it still 
remains. 

1874. 

Building of the Monterey and Salinas \ alley railroad by Mr. David 
Jacks and other prominent citizens of Monterey and Salinas. It is to the 
untiring energy of Mr. Jacks, however, and of Mr. C. S. Abbott of Sali- 
nas that the success of the railroad was due. Mr. Jacks gave $25,000 to 
build the road and borrowed $75,000 on his ranchos, loaning the balance 
of the $75,000 to other parties who put that amount in the project. ^Ir. 
Abbott invested $50,000 and with Mr. Jacks and other citizens, the neces- 
sary $85,000 was raised to build theroad. The road was sold later to the 
Southern Pacific Railroad Company and the track taken up and a new 
road built from Monterey to Castroville, connecting with the main line 
to San Francisco. 



P(l^^c Sixty-ci<iht 

1875. 
Pacific (irove Retreat founded by Air. David Jacks and representatives 
of the M. E. Church. 

1880. 
Hotel Del xVlonte (Hotel of the Forest) built by the Pacific Improve- 
ment Company and opened June, 1880. Among its first distinguished 
visitors was President Rutherford P>. Hayes and General Wm. T. Sher- 
man. 

1887. 
Del Monte destroved bv fire, but immediatelv rebuilt. 

1801. 
President Harrison and party visit Monterey. 

1897. 
Don Juan Malarin, a distinguished citizen of Alonterey, installs a street 
car line connecting Del Monte with Pacific Grove. Mr. Malarin invested 
S50,000 in this enterprise, which gave most efficient service. The road was 
built for horse cars, but in 1903 it was changed to an electric road, and a 
cross line Inn'lt going to the presidio. 

1900. 
Militarv reservation established at Monterev. 



Page Sixty-nine 



SOCIAL LIFE IN OLD MONTEREY. 



From its very beginning, IMonterey was a town of the first importance. 
With the arrival of Padre Jtmipero Serra as president of the CaHfornia 
missions, and Portola as the first governor of CaHfornia, Monterey be- 
came the religions, civil and military capital. It naturally in time became 
the social center also; and the social life of Monterey may be said to have 
unpretentiously begun as early as 1784, with the arrival of Dona Eulalia, 
v^ife of Governor Pages, fourth Spanish governor of California. As far 
as research reveals, she was the first white w^oman of (juality and the first 
European woman to come to California. Dona Kulalia had been tenderly 
reared in Spain and belonged to a family of position and influence. She came 
to Monterey in the spring of 1784 with her husband and little son, on the 
assurance that California was not altogether a land of barbarians. It is 
said that when she arrived in California she was "shocked, and at the same 
time moved with pity at the sight of so many naked Indians," and she 
immediately began to distribute her clothes among them, and those of 
her husband. The governor advised her, however, to "temporarily sus- 
pend her benevolence in that direction, as she might have to go naked 
herself, since clothing could not be obtained in the country." Her stay in 
Monterey was anything but happy, but she remained with her husband 



Page Seventy 

until his term expired and left a reputation for her charitahle works and 
many acts of kindness to the sick and poor. 

The lirst social function in Monterey of which there is any record is a 
reception given by Governor Pages and his wife at the presidio in the fall 
of 1786 in honor of the French navigator. La Perouse, who had been 
sent by the Prench government under Pouis X\'I with an organized 
scientific expedition to explore the remote parts of the v^^orld. The gov- 
ernor of California was not only the highest civil official but the chief 
military officer, and for many years the leading families of the province, 
families of both civil and military officials, lived at the presidio. In due 
time the presidio of Monterey became a pueblo and settlers came and built 
their homes around the presidio. 

The earliest recorded description of Monterey as a pueblo shows it as a 
pretty and attractive settlement. A traveller who visited Monterey in the 
earl}- thirties writes as follows: "Monterey as far as my observation goes 
is decidedly the pleasantest and most civilized looking place in California. 
The white-washed houses have a much better eft"ect on the landscape than 
those of the other towns of California which are of a dirty mud color. The 
red tiles of the roofs contrast with the white sides of the houses and with 
the bright fresh green of the grass, upon which the dwellings about a 



Page Seven/y-oue 

hundred in number, are dotted about irregukirly liere and there. The 
houses being- placed at random in the g'reen grass and nearly all being- 
one story and of the cottage form, have a remarkable pretty effect when 
seen from a distance." 

The great events in the social life of the people of Monterey during- 
the Spanish regime were the inaugural ceremonies in honor of a new 
g-overnor. On these occasions the chief military and civil oft'icials of the 
neighboring- pueblos, with their wives and children, and the "dons" of the 
*'ranchos" with their families and servants, would gather at the capital to 
welcome the new governor. The missionaries would also come, as a relig- 
ious ceremony usually preceeded a social function. 

One of the most famous social functions of the early days in California 
was the celebration at Monterey in 1815, connected with the inaugura- 
tion of Pablo Vicente de Sola, tenth and last Spanish governor of Cali- 
fornia. The missionary fathers and the Spanish Californians had been 
eagerly awaiting the arrival of the new governor. The revolution against 
Spain had already begun in Mexico, and as Sola was a representative of 
the anti-revolutionist party and the people of Monterey were anti-revolu- 
tionists themselves and loyal to the crown of Spain, Sola's arrival was 
therefore the occasion of an unusual demonstration. The president of 



Page Seveiity-tivo 

missions. Padre Payeras, gave orders to all the missionaries to attend the 
inauo'iiration ceremonies, and each to bring with him whatever he thoiig-ht 
might add to the success of the event. Tlie retiring- governor, Louis Anto- 
nio Arguello, also issued orders to the commanding officers of all the mili- 
tarv posts and all civil officials to be ])resent at the festivities. 

Hie ceremonies began in the ])laza of the presidio. At that time the pre- 
sidio consisted of a square nf red tiled roofed adobe buildings, which 
opened into and formed and enclosed plaza or court. All the way around 
the courtyard, running along the fronts of the buildings was a corridor 
ten feet wide, surrounded by redwood i)illars. On the south side of the 
courtyard and forming part of the southern wall stood the Royal Chapel, 
which still remains in a splendid stateof preservation as San Carlos church 
of Monterey. All these buildings were surrounded by a stone wall twenty 
feet high, having only one gateway or door which w^as locked ever}- even- 
ing at sunset and the key deposited with the commanding officer. Several 
da}s were spent in preparation for the reception and entertainment of the 
new governor. The presidio buildings were decorated with pine boughs 
and huckleberry bushes, and among them numberless little lamps were 
distributed and in the evening when it grew dark these were lighted, as 
were also the interior of the buildings and of the church which presented 



Page Scverity-flirce 

an attractive appearance. At an early hour in the evening;- the people 
gathered at the presidio to promenade in the illumniated corridors and to 
meet and congratulate the new governor. 

The next morning High i\Iass was celebrated in the Royal Chapel, 
twenty priests being in attendance, assisted by thirty or forty mission In- 
dians especially trained to sing in the choir. The Indians were dressed in 
l)right colors and carried violins, flutes and drums, which they had made 
at the missions under the instructions of the padres, (iovernor Sola, es- 
corted by the retiring governor, Louis Antonio Arguello, and all other 
officials of the staff and garrison marched into the church between the 
files of soldiers, both cavalry and artillery, who were lined up in front of 
the church on either side. After mass, the governor and staff' marched 
to the center of the plaza where the cavalry, consisting of one hundred 
men under the command of Captain Jose Maria Estudillo, and the Lieuten- 
ants Jose Estrada, Ignacio A'allejo and Jose Dolores Pico, formed a semi- 
circle. (Pico was my great grandmother's father.) The governor stood at 
the foot of a flag pole (at the top of which waved the Spanish flag) and ad- 
dressed the crowd for half an hour. He then turned to the troops and con- 
gratulated them and the missionaries for the good work accomplished in 
in the province. Then they adjourned to the home of the retiring governor 



Paf^e Sevtnly-Jniiy 

where a l)an(|uel awaited the officials. Before entering- the dining room, an 
officer annonnced that twenty senoritas had come to welcome the new 
governor. Among them, conspicuous for their beauty and dress, were 
Magdalena X'allejo, Madgadelna Estudillo and Josefita Estrada. At a given 
signal, ATagdalena Estudillo stepped forward and delivered a short and 
appropriate address of welcome, saying that she and her companions had 
come in behalf of parents and friends to welcome him and tender their 
congratulations on his accession to the government of the province of 
California. The governor responded, and filled with gratitude, asked his 
servant to l)ring into the reception room some boxes of "dulces" which 
he had brought with him from Mexico. He presented each of the young 
ladies with one of these boxes, after which they adjourned to the banquet 
room where a luncheon had been pre])ared by the ladies of Monterey, and 
consisted of the best that could be obtained. 

llie menu was as follows: "Domestic and game birds from Monterey, 
cordials, wines and olives from San Diego, oranges and pomegranates from 
San Gabriel, preserved dates from Lower California, bread and pastry 
from the w^heaten flour of San iVntonio, and old wines from San Fernando, 
Mexico." The tables were decorated with flowers from the garden of Don 
Felipe Garcia, an old settler in Monterev. whose home was about half a 



Page Seventy-five 

mile southwest of the presidio. When the feast was over there was such 
quantities of food left that the whole town was invited to come, and thus 
about five hundred were fed on that day. The banquet was followed by 
the customary entertainment; exhibitions of horsemanship, such as are 
seen at the Salinas rodeo today, a bull fight and a bull and bear fio:ht. There 
was nothing in the bull fig'ht to attract the governor's attention, as he 
had seen such sights in Spain and Mexico, but when he saw a grizzly bear 
held by four mounted vaqueroes, each with a riata tied to each leg of the 
bear, he was somewhat surprised. 

In the evening a most elaborate ball was given at the house of the com- 
mandante of Monterey. The music was furnished by the best musicians 
of the presidio, assisted by the mission Indians who had played at the 
church in the morning. The costumes of the dancers were very pic- 
turescjue. The men wore "dove colored close fitting coats, knee breeches 
fastened at the knee with silver buckles and white silk stockings." The 
women had colored jackets of silk, and white skirts of sheer material 
covered with spangles. They wore white silk stockings and white satin 
slippers. Their hair w^as done up in weaves and curls, and pearl necklaces 
adorned their pretty necks. It is said that the governor was surprised to 
see that the styles worn at the ball were the same as those worn in Spain 



Page Seventy-six 

fortv years before. While it amused him, he was pleased to see the cos- 
tumes of ancient Castile revived, as they recalled the scenes of his early 
youth (It will be interesting to note that these styles remained in vogue 
in Monterey until 1834, when the people adopted the styles of the City of 
}klexico brought by the Hijar colonists in that year.) The styles did not 
change again until the American con(|uest in 1846. (Tvs^o changes in style 
in more than sixty years!) 

The ball lasted all night, but the governor retired early as he had to 
start for Carmel mission at 6 o'clock the next morning, where there was 
to be another celebration. On the morning following the ball, the governor 
and his escorts, consisting of twelve cavalry men in uniform, and men an.d 
women on horseback, began their journey to Carmel over the trail called 
"El Calvario," that ran along through the dense pine forests. (The earh^ 
missionaries had placed fourteen crosses along this road at ec[ual distances 
and every Friday during lent the ceremony of the \ ia Cruz was performed. 
The \'ia Cruz or Way of the Cross is a most impressive devotional exer- 
cise which is ])racticed throughout the Roman Catholic wcirld, and repre- 
sents fourteen of the most touching and remarkable events in the life of our 
Saviour, from the time of His sentence to His burial.) The governor 
and staff had not gone very far far up this picturesque road, when 



Page Seventy-seven 

they were met by the missionaries in their ecclesiastical robes, attended 
by incense bearers and a multitude of Indian neophytes dressed as acolytes. 
They all formed in a procession and escorted the guests to the church 
where another High Mass was celebrated. 

When the religious ceremony was over, the Indians exhibited their 
various games, ending with a sham battle. A California historian tells us 
that there were two things that especially attracted the governor's at- 
tention at these festivities: One was the grizzly bear at Monterey and the 
other was the sham battle of the Indians, neither of which he had ever 
seen before. 

His inauguration ceremonies being over. Governor Sola returned to 
Monterey to attend to the work of his administration, feeling more than 
pleased at what had been done in his honor. 

Thus ended "la gran funcion," the most talked of social function in the 
pastoral days of California. The manuscript from which the account of 
these festivities was originally taken, was written by Juan Alvarado who 
was a little boy at the time of Sola's inauguration, and was present at all 
the festivities. The manuscript is written in Spanish, contains sixty 
pages of closely written legal cap, and may be seen in the Bancroft col- 
lection at the librarv of the Universitv of California. It is said that Alvar- 



Page Seventy-eight 

ado often referred to Sola's inauguration during his last years, as "one of 
the most pleasant and vivid recollections of his childhood." 

From the earliest period in the history of Monterey, dancing was the 
chief amusement, not omy of the youngs people but of the old as well, and 
grandparents and grandchildren were often seen dancing together. Tf a 
few ])ersons met socially at any hour of the day their first thought was to 
send for a violin and guitar, and if these instruments were found in com- 
l)etent hands, that of itself was sufficient reason to send for the dancers. 
Walter Colton wrote in his diary that "a Californian would hardly pause 
in a dance for an earthquake, and wnjuld be pretty sure to renew it even 
before the vibrations had ceased." Balls were given at the governor's 
house or at the residence of the commandante of Monterey, for which in- 
vitations were issued and had to be shown at the door. They were also 
given at private homes, and every house of the better class had a room or 
hall which was called "la sala del bade." 

The most popular i)asioral dances were La Varsoviana, la contradanza, 
la jota, la jota de Aragon, el jarabe, and the Spanish quadrille. The waltz 
was not danced much until after the x\merican conquest, as it had been 
prohibited by the chiuxh under "excommunication major." These dances 
were r|uite different from one another but all were exceedingly graceful. 



Page Seventy-nine 

Perhaps the most interesting and the most graceful was "la contradanza," 
in which a large number of the dancers took part. There were many fig- 
ures and charming combinations in this dance, taken from the other 
dances, and thus it inducted to a great extent the most attractive move- 
ment of all the others. 

Sometimes a ball concluded with a game called '"la canastita." This 
consisted of a ring formed by the dancers who circled around singing. At 
the last word each man rushed forward to embrace the girl he loved and 
if there was one left without a partner she was called "la duena de las 
burlas." As this was repeated many times, the duena was changed. These 
are the words of the song: 

"Toma tu canastita, 
De chiles verdes. 
(Juien te man da ser burla 

De las mujeres. 
Toma tu canasita 
De calabazas, 
Quien te manda ser burra 
Porque no abrazas." 



I'dgc Eighty 

Some of the most enjoyable dances and '"cascarone" balls were given 
at the homes of Thos. O. Larkin and of Don Jose Abrego. 

The cascarone balls were delightful festivals, in which the breaking of 
the cascarones between the dances was the principal feature. The casca- 
rone balls were given during the winter months only, the season ending 
on the evening preceding Ash Wednesday. For weeks previous to the 
cascarone season the ladies would begin to save their egg shells. A hole 
was made on one end of the a^^ and the shell filled with cologne water, 
but most always with oropel (gold leaf finely cut) or with colored paper. 
The open end of the shell was sealed with wax when cologne was used, 
otherwise a piece of white paper cut rotmd was pasted on the end. These 
cascarones were broken lightly on the heads of favored i^ersons; — generally 
the gentlemen broke them on the ladies' heads first. The amusement con- 
sisted in breaking the cascarone at an unexpected moment, and it was con- 
sidered quite an honor to be attacked in this manner. 

Picnics were favorite amusements. In these several families joined, each 
contributing something, such as stuffed turkey, chicken or tongue. wSome- 
times beef was taken and barbecued on the spot and sometimes a fat calf 
was taken and broiled, which was served with ''salsa. " One or two ox- 
carts generall}- went ahead with the provisions, and the married people 



Page Eighty-one 

went on horseback or in ox carts. The young people generally rode on 
horseback. They always returned home singing and a dance was always 
given at the house of one of the party, which lasted all night. At 11 o'clock 
a supper would be announced, consisting of cold meats, coffee, Spanish 
tongue, olives, l^read and cheese. 

The Spanish wedding was a most enjoyable event, and an occasion of 
feasting and dancing for three or four days. 

In 1822 Mexico revolted from Spain and established herself as a sep- 
arate empire. The proud banner of Leon and Castile was lowered from 
the custom house for the red, white and green of Mexico and Monterey 
relunctantly became a Mexican town. One of the elaborate functions dur- 
ing the Mexican regime was a ball given by Governor Figueroa in honor 
of lose Maria Hijar, a director of Mexican colonization, who came to 
Monterey in 1834 with one hundred and thirty colonists. Governor Figueroa 
issued invitations which he had printed on a printing press belonging to 
the missionaries, which had been used by them for printing religious 
tracts. This printing press was the first one in California. (This same 
printing press was used by Walter Colton in 1846 when he published 
the first newspaper in California.) Printed invitations to the ball read as 
follows : 



Pai^e Eighty-tico 

"Jose Figueroa, Jose Antonio Carillo. Pio Pico, Joaquin Ortega and the 
licentiate Rafael Gomez request your attendance at eight o'clock this even- 
ing- at a ball that will be given at the house of the first named to congrat- 
ulate the director of colonization and his estimable fellow travelers, the 
election of deputies for the territor}' and the coinitry. upon its enjoyment 
of union and peace." Signed, 

Monterey, November 1, 1834. MARIANO BONILLA. 

William Heath Davis, who came to Monterey in 1831, and who in 1889 
wrote a book entitled "Sixty Years in California," gives us a very 
good idea of the home life of the people of Monterey: He says: "My first 
visit to California was in 1831. Among the residents at Monterey the most 
prominent foreigners were David Spence, Capt. J. B. R. Cooper, N^athan 
Spear, James Watson, George Kinlock and W .E. P. Hartnell. The first 
three named were engaged in merchandizing. Kinlock was a ship and 
house carpenter. Hartnell was an instructor in the employ of the Mexi- 
can government in the department of California of which Monterey was 
the capital. The people lived in adobe houses and the houses had tile roofs; 
they were comfortable and roomy, warm in the winter and cool in the 
summer. Their furnitin"e was generally plain, mostly imported from Bos- 
ton in the ships that came to the coast to trade. 



Page Eiglity three 

Generally the houses had tioors, but without carpets in the earlier days. 
The women were exceedingly clean and neat in their houses and per- 
sons and in all their domestic arrangements. One of the peculiarities was 
the excellence and neatness of their beds and bedding, which were often 
elegant in appearance, highly and tastefully ornamented, the coverlids and 
pillowcases being sometimes of satin and trimmed with beautiful costly 
lace. The women were plainly and becomingly attired, were not such de- 
votees of fashion as at the present day, and did not indulge in jewelry to 
excess. The people had but limited opportunities for education. As a 
rule they were not well educated: but they had abundant instinct and 
native talent, and the women w^ere full of natural dignity and self posses 
sion. They talked well and intelligently and appeared to nmch better ad- 
vantage than might have been supposed from their meagre educational 
facilities. The families of the wealthier classes had more or less education: 
their contact with the foreign population was an advantage to them in 
this respect. Many of the women played the guitar skillfully and the men 
the violin. In almost every family there was one or more musicians and 
everywhere music was a familiar sound." 

In 1842 Monterey was at the zenith of her glory. It was the social 
center sought bv everv one, and the mecca for all travelers. At this time 



Page Eighty-four 

there were already signs that foreboded important changes. A dominant 
race was fast making its appearance that in the near future was to possess 
the country; and in time make these scenes of ancient reveh'v and pleas- 
ure, a part only of memory and tradition. 

Including the military, the white population numbered about 1000. The 
white people were known as "gente de razon" or people of intelligence, 
to distingush themselves from the Indian who was considered on a level 
with the brute. The "whites" included the families of Spanish and Mex- 
ican and foreigners from England, Germany, France, Ireland, Scotland, 
South America and the United States. Some of these foreigners had come 
since 1814, John (iilroy, the founder of the town that bears his name, 
coming in that year, W. E. P. Hartnell and David Spence in 1822. J. B. 
R. Cooper in 1823, and Larkin and others in 183v3. 

Of the native Spanish Californians, meaning the California descendants 
of Spanish and Mexican blood, there were several distinct classes. The 
upper class consisted of those who were or had been in official station, 
either military or ci\'il. There were not many of those families; they in- 
termarried among themselves and were very aristocratic in their feelings. 
They prided themselves on what they called their Spanish blood and speech 
and were lighter and mori' intelliirent than the other classes. 



Page Eighty-five 

The houses of the poorer classes were crudely furnished but those of the 
better classes fared better, having furniture which was imported from 
Spain or the City of Mexico, good silverware and dainty dishes and Indian 
servants to do the work. The kitchens and dining room were detached 
from the house and all the house work was done by the Indians. There 
was something, however, that could be found in everv home however 
humble, and that was genuine hospitality. 

It was in their amusements, more than in anything else that the jjeople 
took the greatest interest. 

Besides the regular church feast days, there were numerous national 
holidays, all of which were celebrated with more or less pomp and cere- 
mony. Usually there was a high mass at the church in the morning, fol- 
lowed by military evolutions in the plaza, a banquet at noon, a bull fight 
in the afternoon, and a ball in the evening which ended the festivities 
Horse racing and card playing were adjuncts to celebrations, but bull 
fighting was a national sport authorized by the government. 

On the seventh of July, 1846, Commodore Sloat raised the stars and 
stripes on the flag stafif of the old custom house and by it Mexican author- 
ity forever ceased in California. With American military occupation which 
lasted three years, came the American ofi^icers, notable among whom were 



Poffe Eigli/y-six 

Sherman and Halleck. They were graciously and hospitably received in 
the Spanish homes, and became an added feature in the social life of the 
town. Near the conclusion of the military occupation, the lirst Constitu- 
tional Convention met at Colton hall for the purpose of framing a consti- 
tution for the prospective state of California. This g-athering naturally 
was the occasion of much social activity and left its impression on the 
community life. 

The first state ball in California was held at Colton hall on the last 
evening of the convention, on October 13, 1849. which was attended by the 
bon-ton of Monterey. 

The Washington hotel was opened at this period, and from this time on 
to the time of the building of the Del Monte, it was the scene of many a 
cascarone ball and gay social gathering. It was also famous as the head- 
(|uarters of the army and navy. 

liayard Taylor, the writer, who visited Monterey at this time, gives us 
a very pleasing picture of the life in Monterey. Pie says: "With the ex- 
ception of Los Angeles, Monterey contains the most pleasant society to 
be found in California. There is a circle of families, American and native, 
residing there, whose genial and refined social character makes one forget 
his previous ideas of California. In spite of the lack of cultivation, ex- 



Pd^c Ei^li/y-sercii 

cept such instruction as the priests were competent to give, the native 
population possesses a natural refinement of manner which would grace the 
most polished society. The most favorite resort of Americans is that of 
Dona Ang-ustia Jimeno, the sister of Don Pablo de la Guerra. This lady 
whose active charity in aiding the sick and distressed has won her the en- 
during gratitude of many and the esteem of all, has made her house the 
home of every American officer who visits Monterey. With a rare liber- 
ality she has given up a great part of it to their use when it was impossible 
for them to procure quarters and they have always been welcome guests 
at her table. She was thoroughly versed in Spanish literature as well as 
the works of Scott and Copper, through translations, and T have been 
frequently surprised at the justness and elegance of her remarks on various 
authors. The houses of Senor Soberanes and Senor Abrego were also 
much visited by Americans." 

General Riley, military governor of California, ha\ing been in ^fonterey 
two years, returned to the eastern states in Julv, bSSO. On the eve of his 
departure the citizens of Monterey tendered him a farewell banquet at 
the Washington hotel. Covers were laid for two hundred persons, the 
toastmaster of the occasion being General P. H. Bowen. During the even- 
ing Governor Riley w^as presented with a handsome gold watch and a gold 



Page Eighty-eight 

medal valued at $600, a i^'ift from the town council of Monterey. On one 
side of the medal were engraved the words "To the man who came to do 
his duty and accomplished his purpose." The medal was presented by 
Philip A. Roach. 

The American concpiest foreshadowed the chano-es that were to come 
in Monterey. Still that change was very gradual. Up to the time of the 
removal of the county seat from Monterey to Salinas, the community was 
still strongly stamped with the char icteristics of the old regime, and Mon- 
terey was still a typical Spanish town. The removal of the county seat 
caused not only a depression in the business life of the people but in the 
social life as well, and Monterey became the "Sleepy Hollow" of the Paci- 
fic. AVith the arrival of the Del Monte the people of Monterey who once 
were active and prominent in the social and business life of the town were 
either dead or had reached the passee stage. They had been replaced by 
a later generation who had grown up and developed under American rule 
and were ready and willing to lay down the old to take up the new. The 
final stage of the conquest of Spanish Monterey, however, came with the 
advent of the presidio in the year 1900. This was followed by a marked 
increase in jM^pulation and business development. Many a proud old adobe 
was ruthlesslv torn down to give place to the house of business. Modern 



Page Eighty-uine 

movements were inaugurated to meet the tastes and wants of the new- 
comers. Under the influence of strangers who brought new ideas and a 
different aspect of Hfe, Old Monterey soon became a secondary factor, and 
is now fast becoming a mere memory, except in isolated instances, where 
the flames of the past refuse to be entirely extinguished. 

During the period ( 1873-1900), the years that Monterey lay in slumbrous 
repose, it was the residence of many great artists and literary men — 
Strong, Bierstadt, Tavernier, Rollo Peters, together with such authors as 
Robert Louis Stevenson, Charles Warren Stoddard, Bret Hart and Dan- 
iel O'Connell, who made ]^Ionterey their headquarters for a time, sketch- 
ing, painting and writing. Charles Warren Stoddard has given us a pic- 
ture of Monterey at this period in the following words: 

"T saw her in her decay, the once flourishing capital. The old convent 
was windowless and its halls half filled \\\\.h hay. The barracks and the 
calaboose inglorious ruins: the block house and the fort mere shadows of 
their former selves. She was a dear old stupid town in my day. She 
boasted but a half dozen thinly populated streets. Geese fed in the gut- 
ters and hissed as I passed by: cows, grazing by the wayside, eyed me in 
grave surprise; overhead the snow-white gulls wheeled and cried peevishly, 
and on the heights that sheltered the ex-capital the pine trees moaned 



I'agc Ninety 

and moaned and after caught the sea fog- among their thin branches when 
the Httle town was basking in the sunshine and dreaming its endless 
dreams." In later years he wrote: "The town has fallen into the hands 
of Croesus. It is hopelessly modernized." 

Daniel (3'Connel, the poet, has also sweetly and eloquently given us a 
|)icture of ^lonterey at this time in his poem : 

"In a mantle of old traditions 

In the rime of a vanished day, 
The silent and shrouded city 

Sits bv her crescent bay. 

The ruined fort on the hill top. 

Where never a bunting streams 
Looks down a cannonless fortress. 

On the solemn city of dreams. 

Gardens of wonderful roses, 

Climl:)ing o'er roof, tree and wall. 
Woodbine and crimson geranium, 

Hollyhocks, purple and tall. 




Alvaiado Street in Stevenson's and Stoddard's time. 



PdiiC NilH'tV-OHf 



Mingle their odorous breathings 

With the crisp, salt breeze from the sands, 
W here pebbles and sounding sea shells 

Are gathered by children's hands. 

Women with olive faces. 

And the liquid southern eye, 
Dark as the forest berries 

That grace the woods in July, 

Tenderly train the roses 

Gathering here and there, 
A bud— the richest and rarest — 

For a place in their long, dark hair. 

Feeble and garrulous old men. 

Tell in the Spanish tongue 
Of the good, grand times at the mission, 

And the hymns that the Fathers sung. 



Paf^c Nincty-tivn 

Of tlie oil and wine and the plenty, 

And the dance in the twilight gray; 
'Ah these,' and the head shakes sadly, 

"'Were good times in Monterey." 

I)ehind in the march of cities. 

The last in the eager stride. 
Of villages later born — 

She dreams by the ocean side." 

"Oh, what good times we did have," said an old Spanish lady not long- 
ago. Once a week "a la playa" (to the beach) aboard the ships, to dance 
with the officers, with 'our rebosos and mantillas,' "Que buen tiempo, y las 
meriendas, y los bailes." (What good times, and the picnics and the 
balls). "Gone are those days of primitive simplicity; gone are those health- 
ful and innocent sports; gone are those happy days, when there was 
plenty of everything and sorrow and care were unknown." In their place 
we have the screeching of steam, the ringing of the phone, the tooting of 
the automobile, the bustle of trade, the strife of competition, and hearts 
heavily burdened with care. To many the thought is pathetic that the age 



Page Ninety-three 

and people are gone that made this romantic [)eriod of Cahfornia Hfe. It was 
an age that drew upon the soil and herds alone for life's support, and was 
spared the strife of competitive business; and the people by temperament 
and inclination, were most fitted to enjoy these bounties. Soon the mis- 
sion bells w^ill be the only remaining tongue, that will speak and reawaken 
thought in behalf of those cherished days, that have slipped from our view 
below the horizon, like the evening sun upon the bosom of the Pacific. 

■"Ah, there were merry, merry times in famous Monterey then. 
And the like of such rejoicing will ne'er come back again; 
For strangers now are turning the wheels of progress fast. 
And the old historic city is slumbering in the past." 

■'Out from the hoar}- vista, through a mist of silent tears. 
An ancient city rises, gray with the weight of years, 
And by the cresent winding of her calmly sheltered bay, 
She guards her fond traditions, erand old Monterev." 



SAUNAS INDEX PRESS 



SALINAS. CALIFORNIA 



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